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Post by sbleazard on Mar 13, 2020 8:00:26 GMT -7
I just finished my home wall! What should I do first? Add a bunch of holds and make sequences or set individual problems?
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jingo
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jingo on Mar 13, 2020 14:09:10 GMT -7
A row of warmup jugs in the middle. Spray the rest + experiment what you can do of it. At least thats what I did (no particular technical goal).
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Post by cozisco on Mar 14, 2020 9:54:53 GMT -7
That's awesome. Do you have any photos? Seeing new home walls gets me psyched!
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Post by sbleazard on Mar 14, 2020 17:25:04 GMT -7
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 15, 2020 3:17:18 GMT -7
Depends, for me the most important thing that my home wall is for me is a chance to model outdoor cruxes and to create a power endurance route that mimics my projects. So I've done those, and then just spray-fill the rest and then mess around trying to find problems.
When spray filling, make sure to include side-pulls, underclings and weird positions by not just slapping everything on with the most positive side facing up.
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Post by RobF on Mar 16, 2020 11:33:39 GMT -7
My wall's quite small so is set up on a semi systems board basis. Is fairly symmetrical overall but as per Jet I tend to recreate cruxes in-between more permanent holds as per current outdoor projects. There is an easy way back down the middle in 2 or 3 big moves to create pumpy circuits.
If you think like a clock face then around the outer rim of the board: 11,12,1 are horizonal or gaston type crimps. 10 & 2 are slopers, 3,4 & 8,9 are pinches and 5,6,7 are undercuts.
I have some bigger and smaller footholds so can mix up big hands, small feet to small hands, big feet and ultimately small hands, small feet.
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Post by sbleazard on Mar 16, 2020 14:38:26 GMT -7
My wall's quite small so is set up on a semi systems board basis. Is fairly symmetrical overall but as per Jet I tend to recreate cruxes in-between more permanent holds as per current outdoor projects. There is an easy way back down the middle in 2 or 3 big moves to create pumpy circuits. If you think like a clock face then around the outer rim of the board: 11,12,1 are horizonal or gaston type crimps. 10 & 2 are slopers, 3,4 & 8,9 are pinches and 5,6,7 are undercuts. I have some bigger and smaller footholds so can mix up big hands, small feet to small hands, big feet and ultimately small hands, small feet. Useful stuff! Thanks! |
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