Endurance on PUC-style hangboard

[shu]

Hello everyone.
This is a topic I have rarely seen discussed as most everyone has access to a gym or stable multi-hold hangboard of some type.
I unfortunately will be in a work environment where I will not have access to neither for half a year to a year and I intend to do physicals and finger workouts on a portable PUC-style hanger which is typically hang on a stable feature such as a tree branch.
I have trained finger strength in the past on a stable hangboard with weights however this time around I intend to focus on basic endurance as that is my weakest area.
The question here is what would be the best approach to this given the tools available?
The PUC-style hanger has a 20mm, 45?mm edges and juggy sloppers. I am thinking of doing 60 consecutive 7x3s hangs eventually taking weight off with my feet to manage the pump. I will do this for 3 sets with 7-10m rests in between depending on performance. I intend to focus on just this aside from physicals for atleast 2 months before moving onto finger strength/power-endurance with the same hanger.
To give an idea of my fitness: I have projected and sent a couple of power-endurance 13cs in the past year and at peak fitness onsight up to 12c. I divide my time between boulder, sport, trad, bigwall and plan on doing more ice and mountaineering this year. I feel that basic endurance has always been a weakness of mine despite being mre of a sport climber than boulderer.
Any friendly advice would be much appreciated!

[Charlie S]

I'd look at the Bechtel 3-6-9 protocol, or Dr. Tyler Nelson's Density hangs (www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/)

I've got the Tension Blocks and use those when traveling. I've been able to retain strength on the 3-6-9 program. I haven't tried any of the progressions with that or Nelson's. Given your inability to get on a for real wall, Nelson's program may be your best bet for overall finger fitness.

Side note: I find that most people who complain about lack of endurance are generally just weak, but confuse it with endurance because that's the easiest thing to point to.

[Seth Bleazard]

Speaking of Tyler Nelson, what is everyone's opinion on the density hangs/ simplest finger training program? Do the density hangs really help with endurance/PE?

[Charlie S]

The density hangs have more to do with injury prevention and building stronger tendons/ligaments.

However, I would say that increased strength will help with endurance. Power-endurance is a different animal altogether.

[shu]

So I guess an update is warrented especially considering that alot more people would not have access to gyms with the whole Corona situation.
Although Charlie above states that people complaining about lack of endurance are just weak the reality is that endurance is the most tedious to train and definetly a limiting factor for otherwise strong people.
I came up with a 7s on 3s off hang routine where I would place my feet on a stool at an angle to simulate climbing at a steep angle. I chose the biggest edge (30mm) and set to repeat the 7x3 120-180times in a roll maintaining just the level below pumped. I would rest 10 minutes and repeat 2 more times. Incredibly boring and tedious but I have gotten through multiple sessions by listening to podcasts. The results are frankly better than I had anticipated and I feel I can go on forever at certain grades that I would have pumped out at. Huge difference to my trad climbing as well on pumpy gear intensive routes. Definetly something that I find effective if not fun at all.

[sbleazard]

Wow! Incredible commitment! And I thought ARCing was boring!

[sbleazard]

How long does it take overall?

[shu]

It takes around 1.5-2 hours including the 10-15m rest periods. Good luck haha

[shu]

I also adjusted dificulty taking off one foot, placing all my force on the big toe to work that as well for those long multipitch slabs

[johnjohnlol10]

Mar 31, 2020 12:10:26 GMT -7 shu said:

So I guess an update is warrented especially considering that alot more people would not have access to gyms with the whole Corona situation.
Although Charlie above states that people complaining about lack of endurance are just weak the reality is that endurance is the most tedious to train and definetly a limiting factor for otherwise strong people.
I came up with a 7s on 3s off hang routine where I would place my feet on a stool at an angle to simulate climbing at a steep angle. I chose the biggest edge (30mm) and set to repeat the 7x3 120-180times in a roll maintaining just the level below pumped. I would rest 10 minutes and repeat 2 more times. Incredibly boring and tedious but I have gotten through multiple sessions by listening to podcasts. The results are frankly better than I had anticipated and I feel I can go on forever at certain grades that I would have pumped out at. Huge difference to my trad climbing as well on pumpy gear intensive routes. Definetly something that I find effective if not fun at all.

Any chance you could clarify the endurance routine you were doing? I’m in similar situation so I am trying to do something similar to what you did.

Basically, you were doing 7 seconds on, three off for 120 to 180 times? Meaning you would get a total of 1,260 seconds of total time under tension for the 180 times one? Would this be equivalent to ARC training on a hangboard for 20 minutes? I think I will be doing a 30mm edge as well with the stool to stimulate an overhang as I climb mainly in the red river were endurance on steep ish is what I need. Thanks for any advice, just wanted to make sure I interpreted what you wrote correctly.