I have a tension board and campus board currently and looking to fill in the remaining space with a wall that ideally could be used for ARCing, warmups, technique training and for the kids (2 girls currently 21 months and 4.5 months). Since they are not yet climbing I have no idea what angle would be suitable for kids.
Current equipment is: -Full Size Tension board (sets A/B) at 40 degrees (I can fold down top part and adjust anywhere up to degrees as well, which takes about 4 minutes to convert) -10 row Campus Board w/ Medium Tension Rungs
Currently I boulder around V6 @40 Degrees on the tension board and outdoor sport/trad hardest sends 5.12+. I live in the front range and most of my hard climbing is vertical to slightly overhanging (clear creek, s platte, Eldo, Flatirons).
The space I have is 10.5' tall and a corner with just over 5' on the short side and 8' on the long side (see bad photo).
My initial thought is 5 degree wall for the 8' second with a vertical for the 5' section and making the bottom 4' a 5 degree slab for the kiddos that could eventually go back to vertical once they are bigger. Is 5 degrees too shallow for warm up/arcing. I have read some people who say they ARC at 20/30 degrees perhaps the tension board holds don't lend themselves well to that or I'm just a weakling, but with smaller holds it seems reasonable to me.
Nice setup! Do you get the tension board back to 0 deg?
How about connecting the whole surface to an ARC plane? 5 deg wall left part, footholds below campus board (+ some sidepulls, roofjugs..) for crossing into the Tension board, and switching fartlek style between those 2 areas. Even traverse the window. You could experiment with tiny feet/holds in the left part, and some jugs for the kids.