Post by Seth Bleazard on Nov 4, 2019 10:25:05 GMT -7
Hey guys! I posted this on MP and I thought that I might get a better response (as well as a more professional opinion) from you guys.
With less time at the gym, I am beginning to wonder what the most time-efficient way to build endurance. ARCing is obviously the most time consuming, and I'm not entirely sure if it is effective. Route intervals (hard climbing circuits followed by easier climbing with a hard climbing to easy climbing ratio of 1:2) seems quicker and it is the method that I am currently using (though I am beginning to doubt it's effectiveness as well). 4x4s would be the fastest but are more intense and it seems to produce different results than the other two methods (more power, less endurance). Are there any other methods to build endurance and which one will get me pumped faster?
Post by acmesalute76 on Nov 4, 2019 10:47:31 GMT -7
Honestly if you’re trying to build aerobic endurance ARC is the most time efficient method. You don’t really need a warmup since the intensity is low, and you can do a couple 30 minute sets in an hour flat. There’s no other workout that takes less time. Intervals and 4x4s would be more for training power endurance, and you would need to do a lot more warming up for them. You WILL see results ARCing if you’re doing it correctly. Lots of good threads on here to read if you’re struggling with it. Keep in mind that when ARCing you are only getting mildly pumped.
If you’re really that strapped for time you could just do one 30 minute set and still get some benefits.
Post by acmesalute76 on Nov 5, 2019 9:09:32 GMT -7
Aerobic endurance is how hard you can climb without getting pumped. Power endurance is your ability to climb a lot of hard moves in a row. You need both for sport climbing. It varies depending on the route. In a periodized program you would train aerobic endurance, then strength (hangboard), then power (boulder/campus) then PE (4x4s and route intervals).
I agree with acmesalute76 that ARC'ing is the fastest (though you'd need 1h10 to 1h15 to get two 30 min sets, accounting for rest in between). ARCing is really the gold standard for low intensity, aerobic endurance. Anything with routes will be less time-efficient because you're (likely) spending time belaying your partner instead of climbing.
Everyone hates ARCing, but it's the most direct low-intensity aerobic, climbing-specific exercise that exists. I'd also argue that it IS time efficient, especially if you're working on upping your technique while at it.
The intervals and 4x4s tax a different system altogether, especially when you drop your rest and start getting to negative rest ratios, you're no longer aerobic, you're in the anaerobic lactic.
Date began RCTM: Oct 2018 Starting level: 10+, v3 (outdoor) Current level : 11b, v3 (outdoor) Currently in suspended Cycle 3(hangboard maintenance during covid)