Post by Greying on Granite on Oct 4, 2019 8:39:38 GMT -7
Sorry for yet another ARC thread. I'm finally getting back onto a structured training season after several years of irregular training/climbing. I did a full season about 5 years ago and it really helped me, especially the base fitness/ARC period. As I'm getting back into it I am reading up again on ARC technique and goals and now am questioning if I'm taking the right approach.
Most blogs and posts I can find (by Mike and others) encourage this 30% idea. I can onsight 11- consistently on lead so in theory I should be ARCing in the 10- range. I could see this on a route with a pretty serious rest or two or an outdoor climb with stemming or sections of 5.8/5.9, however in the gym this just doesn't seem realistic. I've been taking a much more "titrate the pump so that I'm getting close to coming off the wall but then can milk a rest" approach and in the past have been able to sustain 2x 45 minute sets this way. Today I tried getting on the gently overhanging autobelay at my gym with a 5.8 on it and just tried to do 20 minutes. I am able to do it but am definitely quite fatigued and having to milk certain rest spots to be able to continue. Most of the holds are big jugs (using small feet) but the few slopers I am definitely working hard to stay on.
Am I going about this wrong? Would love to hear about your approaches.
Post by jetjackson on Dec 16, 2019 21:23:25 GMT -7
Kicking back the angle I think makes a big difference. ARC is probably the most vague component of all the training elements and I think people come in here all the time for clarification.
Going by grade alone isn't the most reliable. If it's a 5.8 with a V4 in the middle of it that makes is 5.11, then it's probably not as useful as ARC on a very sustained 5.11.
At the moment I'm doing ARC on a 30 degree woody and just moving around on jugs - I might do 60-80 new hand moves in 20 minutes (not including alternating hands while resting) and I have a really awkward knee-bar rest that takes a single knee but is not hands off. Duty cycle is 1:1. Improvement over 6 sessions in 2 weeks has been rapid. See below improvements in length of reps across 3 rep sessions.
I've transitioned to doing this for 2 reasons. A newborn means I'm housebound and cannot get to the gym, and also in my last season I got to the point where I could do 2 x 45 min reps on auto-belay on 5.11 climbing. So this season I thought I'd try and improve my ARC ability on a more overhung wall. I'm really just doing this for the hell of it though. If I had a big trip to a destination with endurance climbing I would focus on longer ARC. In future I think I'll be trimming back ARC for the majority of my climbing and focussing on strength and power.