Overtraining, or not training enough?

[zachtheclimber]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I've tried searching these forums and other training resources, but haven't come up with a definitive answer. Maybe this is basic and I'm missing the obvious!

Anyway, I completed my first full RCTM cycle this spring and had a great performance period. Felt stronger than I ever have before in my 10 years of climbing, even stronger than when I was a full-time routesetter. After performance, I took a short break, then started on another cycle to peak for the early summer season here in Montana. I think I pushed too hard during hang boarding initially (fingers started to feel a bit tweaky, and I still have some residual effects, I think), but backed off and found a better balance. Unfortunately, I had some family stuff come up right before my performance phase, which made my climbing sporadic. I took a week off here and there and never felt like I had a true peak. I took it as a positive since my fingers weren't feeling 100% anyway, but even after a few weeks rest, it still didn't feel quite right.

Since things got so hectic and disjointed, I haven't gone back to training yet, as stress levels have felt too high. Whenever I've gone out climbing (about twice a week), I've felt really shaky (like physically shaking, not mentally) on climbs a full number grade below my project level (was climbing 12b/c second go during my spring peak, just for reference). I don't know if I just need to get back to training, or if I'm just burnt out and need to take a break off from climbing for a few weeks. If it were winter, I'd do that just to see, but we are in prime season here in Montana, and that season isn't long!

I've read about CNS fatigue, but I'm not sure I fall into that category. I also have a few years experience with the Training for the New Alpinism training program, and I've been known to push too hard during training sessions/seasons in the past. It kind of feels like each time I got out climbing, I have diminishing returns.

Do I need to take a few weeks off to try to salvage a fall season?  Do I need to start training again now? Am I digging a bigger hole by climbing now, or will jumping back into training help?

Thanks for the feedback!

[acmesalute76]

If you took three weeks off, assuming you weren’t running yourself into the ground with non-climbing training, you should have pretty much recovered from your last cycle. A couple things I would say though:

I’d be starting with easier climbing. A number grade below project is still a fairly hard onsight for most people. I’d stick to climbing lots of 5.10s and focusing on ARC type mileage and workouts, and focusing on technique refinement. This phase will also get your fingers ready for hangboarding.

I’d also say that if you’re feeling weaker each time you go out, you’re not fully recovering between sessions. If you decrease the intensity you should be ok, if not you can also increase your rest, but for the base fitness phase I prefer to decrease intensity until I can reach the prescribed mileage. Also, be aware that any extra work (cardio training, physical labor, etc) will cut into your work capacity.

Hope this helps. I’m projecting low 12s and am about to start my fourth cycle of RCTM style training.

[zachtheclimber]

Thanks for the reply! I didn't actually take 3 weeks off at one go, more like a 10 days, then some hard climbing, then another 7 or so. I'll decrease the intensity and up the mileage. Good way to utilize the rest of the outdoor season and get back into training. Thanks again for the thoughtful response and help. It is much appreciated!

[MarkAnderson]

Sounds to me more likely that you haven’t been climbing enough.