Post by acmesalute76 on Jul 15, 2019 17:22:59 GMT -7
My focus this summer was to work on power, bouldering and dynamic climbing, since they are things I’m weak at. I feel like I’ve been making good progress, and just completed my third campus workout. I was planning on doing a fourth and also a fourth limit bouldering session, but what if I just keep going? At what point is my progress going to level out? Also, is there a risk of injury continuing to train like this? Bouldering has certainly got me hurt in the past, and is one reason I tend to prefer roped climbing.
So, assuming I stay psyched, can I continue to train power/boulder indefinitely? What are the upsides/downsides?
Most common programming I see along these lines is to include a deload week every 4-5 weeks to allow for recovery and to “catch up” on the deficit you’ve been building with a month of high intensity training
Some ppl advocate for complete rest, others for a reduction in volume but not intensity. You’ll have to find what works best for you.
Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 16, 2019 17:44:34 GMT -7
I’ve trained power for as much as 10 weeks within the framework of an NLP plan. I’m sure there are lots of boulderers who train it indefinitely. I would be worried about injuries though. Definitely listen to your body and rest accordingly.
Post by acmesalute76 on Jul 17, 2019 7:45:39 GMT -7
Thanks guys, sounds like it’s ok to continue as long as I’m careful. I take an extra rest day here and there to make sure I’m fresh. I guess the one thing I’m wondering still is will I continue to benefit from power training, or at some point will I stagnate. Sounds like it wouldn’t be for a while.
I seem to need a longer power phase in order to peak. I extended my power phase in Spring 2019 because that season was unusually wet and hit a max ladder personal best on my 9th campus workout (about 6 weeks into the power phase). Now this spring, with an even longer power phase, I hit another max ladder personal best on my 11th campus workout (8 weeks in) and then my 14th campus workout was my best overall (10 weeks in). My bouldering also seemed to peak around the same time. However, soon after that my power quickly waned and my fingers got tweaky. I also felt fatigued in general so I decided to reset with some rest and a new training cycle. I didn’t do any de-load weeks or anything so I probably had it coming. I also wonder if a 7-day course of antibiotics had something to do with it.