Took a fall from the top of a boulder and landed on a tree root under the pad, now dealing with an ankle sprain and a lovely boot to wear. My question is how do I train effectively now? Especially train endurance as it’s my weak spot right now
Couple of parameters - I want to transition from bouldering to sport (injured on last bouldering trip of season) - rarely have a partner to belay when at the gym - in a boot for 6 weeks, followed by brace - access to Trango blue finger board at home - at gym 2x a week for sons climbing team (gym has metolious boards, campus board, a few vertical auto belays, and weights)
Any suggestions are great, I can write a training plan from the book, but I’m struggling with creativity. Finger board obviously, but max or repeaters? I’ll also take success stories from others because I’m pretty bummed right now.
Post by MarkAnderson on May 20, 2019 11:47:08 GMT -7
If you’re looking to shift towards endurance and sport climbing, I would think hang board repeaters would be better than max hangs. You can also ARC on a hangboard, but you’ll want some entertainment for that. I’ve never tried PE on a hangboard but it must be possible. Hang in there, you’ll be back at it before you know it!
It’s been a month and I’ve gained endurance ( I believe ) during this month. My workouts have been the following the last 30 days
Arc on hangboard - feet on 20 mins ( worked up to 25 ) 2x during session with 10-15 min break in between. Key was to keep moving and pull or bump to holds to load fingers each move. UNBELIEVABLY BORING .. listened to audiobook to help pass time, worked better than music for me. To keep going and push I would count moves .. wanted 45-60 moves before resting on jugs. By end was dripping sweat and had a really solid pump.
After the arc I did some general fitness training ... core, shoulders, dips.
Just transitioned to a brace (did weekly acupuncture to help promote healing, epson salt, movement etc.. ) will adjust next 4 weeks to different training.
For next 4 weeks unsure what to do for PE, I’m thinking arc warm up, campus, general fitness but not sure yet ...
Overall as awful as arcing on a hangboard was it helped get me through the first 4 weeks and helped me feel like I’m still training or at least maintaining.