First, thanks mark and mike for a great book, I enjoyed it!
Here's what I'd like to understand:
- I have a problem on Moonboard, which includes two hard moves - I have done the first hard move in isolation after ~4 tries, so it's not a limit move - I have done the second hard move in isolation in two sessions, after ~20 tries - I can do the second hard move in isolation ~60% of the tries now - I can't link the two moves, even after trying it for ~10 sessions, ~50 tries
Is this limit bouldering? Am I pushing my power forward with trying this further?
I believe that if your attempts are lasting around 5 seconds or less, then the answer would be yes. That said, after 10 sessions without seeing much progress, I would maybe move on to something else and revisit that problem next season.
Post by acmesalute76 on Mar 13, 2019 16:32:26 GMT -7
You’re definitely limit bouldering! But for me to spend ten sessions on it would take three training cycles. Are you doing ten limit bouldering sessions in one training cycle? Are you also campusing? For me, a power phase that long would just lead to injury.
I’d say you have a perfect limit problem, and you should return to it during your next cycle as a benchmark. If you can do the moves now, it should go down with a little hard training!
Thanks guys! I'm following a non-linear periodization program, e.g. finger strength on Monday, limit bouldering on Wednesday and hard bouldering/power endurance on Friday. Anyway, my question should be relevant whether I'm on one or the other periodization program. Ok, so I've put the problem on hold for a few weeks, will re-start projecting it after that.
Last Edit: Apr 1, 2019 5:21:24 GMT -7 by brankpajic