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Post by Charlie S on Dec 22, 2018 20:38:31 GMT -7
FINALLY going. For those who have been there or have insight...for climbing in the 5.11-5.13 range, I have to compress either power or power-endurance.
As it currently stands, I'm looking at:
2 weeks ARC
4 weeks strength
2 weeks power
2 weeks PE
It is a shortened training schedule. Last minute plans. Is it even worth it to do PE for 2 weeks? Would I be better suited to do just 4 weeks of power instead?
Cave routes look like fun but I stand a better chance on things not so steep.
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Post by daustin on Dec 24, 2018 5:32:20 GMT -7
How long will you be there for? If it’s a long enough trip that you can afford to build some PE on the rock there, then I might try to do more of a hybrid power/PE phase - e.g. 1x PE workout per week, 2x power workouts.
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 24, 2018 14:09:30 GMT -7
9 days. Good idea to build it on the rock.
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Post by RobF on Jan 12, 2019 3:40:21 GMT -7
Hoping to get back there this September so interested to see how your training goes. There's routes of every style so whatever you train for you'll have fun.
Have to say I've never been shut down on a move whilst there so the emphasis should be on enduro and lots of it.
Not really thought about my training plan as yet but a staple will be foot on campus of around 80-100 moves with a 5 second hold on each move...
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 12, 2019 16:21:33 GMT -7
Wow, that's a lot of moves on a campus board, even with feet! I really struggle with training for just plain "endurance" on plastic. Skin usually goes first. I find I get better benefit on endurance by hangboarding on "larger" holds with "more" weight. A buddy said to train shoulder strength. I've added some of those exercises on my "off" days. This is the route I'm most interested in, but won't be a maximal effort: www.mountainproject.com/route/106804781/aegialis |
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Post by RobF on Mar 19, 2019 3:13:00 GMT -7
How's the training coming on???
I've been mainly volume based so far this year (around 20 routes at the wall or 10-15 routes and foot on campussing), but just about to go to the wall to make some inquires about what I can do on the campus board (footless). Rather aware that it's still 6 months before my trip so taking care not to peak too early in the season. Having panic attacks about getting half way up the Grande Grotte and powering out keeps the psyche high...
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Post by Charlie S on Mar 19, 2019 22:52:02 GMT -7
Alright, so here’s kind of an initial assessment with this trip basically over.
1, my onsight and redpoint ability here was pretty poor. Despite excellent numbers on the hangboard and a record-setting power-endurance phase, this translated poorly to the cave dwelling, tufa pinching, stalactite wrestling climbing we were seeking out. This wasn’t a failure to train, but rather a failure to train properly. The few face-y and short bouldery routes here (up to 5.11d) felt “easy” to onsight or flash. Any other style felt near impossible.
Lesson: I need to spend far more time on my 30 degree wall next time instead of the 15. Also, the hangboard should be adjusted for larger holds with more weight and pinches.
Or, look for face climbs. Honestly, the face climbing here was on par with the excellent face climbing in the Arizona strip. We came here for tufas, so, that’s what we got on.
2, the thing I did do right was shoulder work. Lots of bench I-Y-T’s and I felt well equipped with that muscle group. Adding lat pull downs would have helped a little too. I’m not sure where to have added this as adding more pulling tends to aggravate my elbows.
3, headspace. I hadn’t touched real rock since January, and I felt out of my comfort zone on falls into space where getting back on to the rock would be a problem. Or crashing into tufas. Realistically, these were non-issues but I let it get to my head and did not spend time simply falling to get over it.
4, priorities. This trip was unique in that my non-climbing wife joined, along with 6 other friends. Relationships are arguably more important than climbing, but she was gracious and we worked out the appropriate level of climbing and touristing together time.
On the climbing priority side, focus was on breadth instead of depth. For this trip, it was hard to get wrapped up on a single climb because there are over 3000 routes here! We focused on variety and a different crag each day. While this is bad for redpointing, it is good for mileage. Some holds and moves I’ve never imagined were performed. Good ideas for the Barn...
So finally, how to modify for next time?
ARC: maybe take some liberties on true ARCing and focus on more volume bouldering on the 30 degree.
Strength: larger holds with more weight and pinches.
Power: Moonboard. I did some campusing this season but I don’t feel like it was very specific.
PE: bigger holds, steeper wall, instead of smaller holds on a less steep wall.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 20, 2019 17:34:07 GMT -7
Relationships are arguably more important than climbing, Nice. |
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Post by RobF on Mar 24, 2019 10:50:30 GMT -7
All useful knowledge, thanks for sharing...
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Post by RobF on Sept 2, 2019 13:04:27 GMT -7
Booked my ticket for Kalymnos Climbing Festival start October: anyone else going?
Been going really steady all year and now starting with the psyche.
Very very basic training regime.
Final 1 RM partial deadlift this eve, worked up to 240 kg X 10 sec which is about 3x BW
From now on its reps and lots of reps
Fingerboard 20mm with -10kg, 7 sec on, 3 sec off, 30 rep sets x lots of them
Pressups or dips to keep an even balance
Occasional wall or outside and 100% aim = stay healthy- that's it really.
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Post by Charlie S on Sept 2, 2019 18:50:39 GMT -7
Get on the steep stuff! And train all the steep endurance you can manage while staying injury free. Have fun in October. I'm jealous!
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Post by Colin Taylor on Nov 26, 2019 7:57:56 GMT -7
Thanks for the info.
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Post by saminengland on Jan 9, 2020 13:56:15 GMT -7
I'm a new member here.
How did your trip go RobF?
I went to Kalymnos for the 4th time in October (end), with family for the third time. My six year old daughter did her first lead on Telendos. I was 6 weeks post tendon injury so took it easy.
Joined this forum to look at training for recovery and also to get some ideas about improving for the next climbing trip - Fontainebleau at Easter (again with the family).
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Post by RobF on Jan 19, 2020 15:07:00 GMT -7
Had a great time ta. Going for the festival was fun. As always, did some amazing climbing and made some new friends that will hopefully catch up with on this years trip.
Some reflections:
1/ Did quite a lot of wild swimming over the summer which meant I was cold adapted. This didn't help when Europe was experiencing an overly warm autumn. There was one afternoon where I was sat at the bottom of Panorama at about 4pm looking at all these awesome routes (I'd say I had about 6 routes in me still) and couldn't face setting off because of the heat- full blazing sun of 28+ degrees. In the end we called it quits and went for a swim.
2/ As per above the window of opportunity is the earlier part of the day (7am - 2pm in the main). My usual training is after work and often 7pm onwards. This is a bit of a shock to the system. You really need to be getting up at 5 for breakfast and up to the routes by 7. This means getting organised the night before / not the usual climbers fare of an 11am coffee and then think about doing a few stretches before rolling up to the crag after mid-day.
3/ My nutrition on the whole worked. I had electrolyte drinks because of the heat, and was really strict with ~10g protein every 3 hrs (either in the form of bcaa tablets or protein energy bars). Morning was started with a bulletproof coffee. With this I actually felt to be getting stronger each day. We stayed for 11 days total which I felt was fine. Climbed every day (x1 'recovery' day half way through when climbed x4 easy slabs) and not much soreness really. There were some nutrition things I would have liked to have had with me (as couldn't get these on the island) so think will sort an extra 10kg luggage next time. We did a mix of 1 night staying in and cooking and the next eating out which worked well with repect to costing and being bothered to cook when tired.
4/ All my kit worked well and didn't need my long trad draws due to the excellent bolting. Non of the grotte routes were equipped this time - apart from upper half of Fun Du C (which they always have been whenever I've been before) so will have to have a think about a spare 20-25 clips if projecting these epic adventures. The quest to tick the grotte continues...
5/ Training as above seemed to work alright. Felt fresh and keen on arrival. In general not much pump. Would like to do more limit bouldering / maybes once a week in the run in to the next trip. Had some of the harder stuff where got shut down on crux's and there was no way I was techniquing my way around.
Psyched for next trip. Need to decide on going for the festival again or later for cooler weather - a tough decision...
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Post by RobF on Jan 19, 2020 15:17:30 GMT -7
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