sytse
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Posts: 5
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Post by sytse on Dec 8, 2018 3:53:41 GMT -7
Hello everyone, I am Dutch so excuse for any writing errors. I would like to discuss the addition of some specific weight exercises in a strength training protocol. I was hoping Marc or/and Mike could also give their ideas. RCTM recommends pull-ups, one arm inverted rows and bicep curls for upper body strength training (if they fit your climbing goals). Those three exercises target specific climbing movements. But off course one can also imagine other climbing movements which require upper body strength, but are not targeted by those three exercises. I like to list a few of those movements (the first two are probably most applicable to general climbing), and the strength exercises I think might benefit them: - Dumbbell row (with arm at 0º abduction): Locking or moving from side pulls when they are close to your body. Similar as the one arm inverted rows, with maybe more focus on upper body strength instead of core strength.
- Dumbbell row (with arm at 90º abduction) and/or one-arm reverse flies: Locking off from a side pull, and shoulder moves when doing a traversing section.
- Triceps kickbacks: Using triceps to increase your reach when doing a lock off (on vertical terrain).
- Dumbbell chest flies (bouldering only): For doing compression moves.
- Dumbbell pullover: Using chest muscles on overhanging terrain when reaching with stretched arms (or for doing dynos when performing the exercise in power training).
- Any ideas for exercises which help with moving up from ‘reachy’ underclings (especially the beginning of the move)? I was thinking about some sort of reversed dumbbell pullover, but I am not sure of this is a healthy way of moving your shoulders.
I guess in contrary to the TRX, the dumbbells make it easy for adjusting weight per training session, and therefore applying one of fundamentals of performance training ‘progressiveness’. For me this was the most important reason for selecting exercises with dumbbells. So do you guys think those exercises are specific enough that they can translate to climbing performance? Of course assuming the listed movements apply the crux/difficult section(s) of a goal route. Thanks for any ideas.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 8, 2018 10:43:03 GMT -7
I think those exercises sound fine. The idea behind SEs was to provide a menu of options that each climber can select from based on strengths, weaknesses and goals.
Ask yourself if the moves you are training for are common and limiting. I focus my energy on training movements that regularly shut me down on the rock. For example, I don’t see the side pull motion you described as limiting in my own climbing.
As for underclings, I don’t understand what you mean by “reachy” underclings. Do you mean reaching high overhead to grab an undercling, or moving off a really low undercling where the underclinging arm is totally extended, or something else?
Generally speaking, I think two things are really key for underclings: biceps strength and lower back strength. Lower back strength enables you to “stand up tall” into the undercling and maintain that pressure on the hold as you move past it.
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sytse
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Posts: 5
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Post by sytse on Dec 10, 2018 6:11:05 GMT -7
Thanks for replying!
So what I mean with underclings is the following: I climb often in a limestone area with technical vertical terrain (sometimes a little less than vertical). In that area I regularly encounter underclings which are high overhead (sometimes the moves are limiting or they drain a lot of my energy). The problem is not reaching the undercling, but moving up when I already grabbed the undercling, and it is still high above my head, and my arm is stretched out (the beginning of moving up is always the hardest part). I already can do pistol squats, so my leg strength seems to be fine. Any recommendations for exercises?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 10, 2018 9:47:26 GMT -7
Ok, I understand what you're saying. That's a pretty common move at Rifle. I think triceps and deltoid strength help with that kind of move. I'd recommend Should Press for a simple exercise. Normally Shoulder Press is done with your palm facing out. An overhead undercling would usually be done palm facing in, so you might consider creating a palm-in variation to Shoulder Pres, but be careful. Shoulders are complicated and fragile so if you try something new, start with low resistance and build up gradually. Additionally, core strength is always helpful for extended moves like overhead underclings. If you haven't seen this yet, check out this article on core strength: rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/05/27/functional-core-training/
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