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Post by alexandra on Nov 27, 2018 15:11:19 GMT -7
This might be my first finger injury (apart from some little nagging pains here and there throughout the years and there that have gone await super fast), and I would appreciate some advice both on what it could be and what to do. I was on my second PE session three days ago, and right about at the end of my session I started feeling some pain on my right index finger, which was also swollen in the joint area. Nothing "happened", no popping sound, no specific move that I felt strained etc... The pain only appears when I bend my finger past 90 degrees and there is no pain otherwise on any other movement. It is also a little hard to bend my finger past 90 degrees anyway due to the swelling. It also hurts a little when I squeeze my finger. I also want to add that the pain is mild in case that helps diagnosis  I have been taping the finger the last 3 days and now that I took the tape off it does not look or feel much different than day 1. Yesterday I went route climbing to work on some endurance/route intervals and avoid hard moves, I avoided right hand crimps (or rather used them with my other three fingers only). I had no pain while climbing, unless I (accidentally) bend my finger past 90 degrees in which case I had a nagging and stopped. I was wondering if any of you have any advice on what the injury might be? do I need to go to a doctor? If not, what should I do for my finger to heal? ice it? take anti-inflammatory meds? keep climbing with the other three fingers and avoid crimps? rest completely (preferably not  )? how long do such things take to heal generally? can I do light hang boarding? Any advice is greatly appreciated, this is my first time in this situation and I am clueless as to what to do I was hoping to send my V8 project soon, but now I am getting worried... Thanks so much friends! |
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Post by daustin on Nov 27, 2018 21:21:41 GMT -7
Sounds like a pulley injury. Lots written here about how to rehab. Long story short, once any swelling has resolved, start a very, very low intensity hangboard program. I like to do some ARCing too. In my experience, usually takes 4-8 weeks to get back to climbing “hard” though I’m usually cautious about all out crimping on the injured finger for a bit longer.
You may be able to push through and send your V8 proj, but you risk making the injury worse which can extend rehab times. Best to take care of it now and come back for the proj when you’re healed, IMO
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 28, 2018 5:14:08 GMT -7
I have been taping the finger the last 3 days and now that I took the tape off it does not look or feel much different than day 1. I had no pain while climbing, unless I (accidentally) bend my finger past 90 degrees in which case I had a nagging and stopped. Hard to tell exactly what your injury is, but swelling, and no reduction in the pain on palpitation of the effected area after 3 days of rest - is not a great sign IME. Does sound like a pulley injury, but could also be Synovitis. I have less experience with the latter. Not sure how much the treatment protocol changes with Synovitis. Still, it doesn't sound like a crazy injury either - no pop loud enough the entire gym could hear and immediate swelling and extreme pain. Question I would have though - is did you get an electrified feeling in the finger? On one of my acute pulley injuries, there wasn't much of a pop, but my finger felt like it was buzzing afterwards for a few hours. I get niggles in fingers occasionally, and might have a little soreness for a day or so, but it's usually gone by the third day if it's minor. I'll avoid any big moves onto it for maybe a week, do some more climbing and if it doesn't repeatedly come back after workouts, then I know it was just a niggle. I might get a couple of those every cycle. Something that comes back each time in the same spot after climbing, is a bit more serious IMO. No acute sign of injury - pop etc. is a good sign, but keep in mind that sometimes it can happen mid Sharma noises and you just miss it. I'm in the habit now of palpitating the pulleys each morning after a hard workout, just to check in with them... sometimes minor niggles can go undetected, particularly after your hands warm up for the day. The comment about 'accidentally' is usually why I try and rehab my pulleys on the hangboard, and not in the gym. It's just too hard to be disciplined in the gym IME. I've experimented with voodoo flossing, icing, pleading to the gods... but nothing every really worked in any discernible way except for - additional rest, like days or a week or two, until the pulley is almost free from pain on palpitation, then starting on really, really low weights on the hangboard, and slowly building it back up again. Knock on wood I have not had a pulley injury in almost 2 years... now if I could only keep my fingers out of blenders... |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 28, 2018 9:19:10 GMT -7
Which joint are we talking about?
Pulley injuries in the index finger are pretty rare, so it could be something else. In my experience collateral ligament strains are pretty common in index fingers, much more common than pulley injuries in that finger. Both injuries can cause swelling that limits range of motion.
It’s worth finding out because a pulley injury is much more serious and if that’s what you have, you should stop climbing and start a rest/rehab program. If it’s “just” a collateral ligament strain you can probably keep climbing with care.
Granted CL strains tend to be acute, but it’s not that unusual to hurt yourself acutely but not realize it at the time.
Other than an MRI or something like that, the easiest way to figure out what you have is to get the swelling down so you can pinpoint the pain. Generally pain nearer to the palm side of the hand indicates a pulley injury, and pain nearer to the backside suggests a collateral ligament. It also depends where along the finger the pain is.
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Post by alexandra on Nov 28, 2018 12:40:23 GMT -7
Thank you all for responding. MarkAnderson, The pain is in the PIP joint. When I squeeze my finger (with my left hand fingers), it hurts (very mildly) right under the PIP joint on the side of the index finger which is closest to the middle finger. (so the right side of the right index finger). I was always imagining (and hoping) that a pulley injury would hurt much more than what I am feeling. Also, on open grips my finger is pretty much at full strength -I haven't tried crimping since to test it though (of course). I really want to just push through and climb, since I am really terrible at resting, thus I would like to figure out if there is a way (short of getting an MRI) to diagnose what I have... If you think MRI is the only way, then I will do it (But it feels like an overkill to me at the moment...) Alternatively, I can start climbing slab only with no hand holds and improve my crappy footwork  jetjackson : no electrifying feeling at all on my finger whatsoever... |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 28, 2018 14:07:57 GMT -7
It sounds to me like a CL strain, but obviously I’m not a doctor.
FWIW, I’ve never had an MRI for a finger injury. I wouldn’t go that route unless I was considering surgery.
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Post by alexandra on Nov 28, 2018 15:12:32 GMT -7
Thanks Mark! Any advice on what to do? keep taping it and climbing/hangboarding on it? get in some easier ARCing etc instead? rest? It really doesn't hurt much and there is little swelling remaining but I am a bit cautious since I don't want to cause more trouble to it...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 28, 2018 17:54:39 GMT -7
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Post by Chris W on Nov 28, 2018 18:03:08 GMT -7
... MRI for a finger injury. I wouldn’t go that route unless I was considering surgery. I agree. A good ortho doc can almost always diagnose you with a good history and physical exam. They tend to use MRI's to plan for surgery. |
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)? how long do such things take to heal generally?
