Post by elevate on Nov 15, 2018 10:54:42 GMT -7
I just started training after ~10 years of climbing (of varying levels of consistency). I started with a half phase of HB with super low weights to rehab a chronic A4 pulley injury in my ring finger which worked phenomenally after 10 months of traditional rest and easy climbing made 0 progress! I am now midway through my first "real" phase. I think I have just about dialed in the grip sets and weights that I will build from.
The purpose of this post is two-fold: to get any comments or suggestions about the plan and because I have scoured this forum for other beginner's numbers to help rationalize some of mine and figured it could help others.
Caveat: Don't copy my plan, start very light and put in the effort to dial in your own. Don't be too proud to stop mid-rep if it doesn't feel right, etc, etc.
I feel like I have done a great job of removing ego from the equation and finding appropriate and safe weights. You see so many articles and posts about people doing BW + XX%, so hopefully this helps people see that there is a spectrum.
Calibration:
Height: 5'6" - Weight: 145lb
Years Climbing: ~10 (of varying levels of consistency)
Training: First "real" hangboard phase (performed an injury recovery/ learning phase a couple months ago)
Outdoor Bouldering: Hardest V6 (crimping), Many V4,V5
Outdoor Sport: Hardest 5.11c (Power Endurance crimping); Many low 5.11
- Have only redpointed two routes ever... which I plan to begin doing more and which I fully assume will add more to my progression than any amount of hangboarding. Who would've thunk that actually trying harder routes would be necessary for sending harder routes?!
Board: Metolius Simulator 3d (Unfortunately - public facility)
Sets/ hold: 1
Reps: 6
Duration: 10
Rest: 5
Warmup Jug: BW
5 (Semi-open aka: Chisel): BW-10 (Pretty easy, pinky A4 callous gets irritated)
11 (Half crimp): BW-25
- Feel absolutely no pain in ring finger!
- Pinky felt slightly too hyperextended on one set (make sure to use far side of holds).
12 (MI): BW-20 (Released prior to failure on last rep @ 8s)
11 (Open): BW-??
- Want to swap this grip in to my standard set (replacing IMR jug), for some reason didn't include it initially
- Completed 2 reps at BW-35, before abandoning the set as it was clearly too hard
- Try BW-50 next session
12 (MR): BW-25
- Completed the last set literally at the second of failure (maybe should have stopped a second earlier)
- Was careful to avoid lumbrical issues by not aggressively contracting inactive fingers
- Feels like it has a lot to do with skin friction and passive skeletal/ tendon loading (vs engaging muscles) and feels like my fingers are going to rip out of my hand
- I think I'm going to dial back the weight significantly even though it was technically successful. (BW-40??)
Comments? Suggestions? Flames for claiming to keep ego out of it then posting numbers online? All welcome, cheers!
The purpose of this post is two-fold: to get any comments or suggestions about the plan and because I have scoured this forum for other beginner's numbers to help rationalize some of mine and figured it could help others.
Caveat: Don't copy my plan, start very light and put in the effort to dial in your own. Don't be too proud to stop mid-rep if it doesn't feel right, etc, etc.
I feel like I have done a great job of removing ego from the equation and finding appropriate and safe weights. You see so many articles and posts about people doing BW + XX%, so hopefully this helps people see that there is a spectrum.
Calibration:
Height: 5'6" - Weight: 145lb
Years Climbing: ~10 (of varying levels of consistency)
Training: First "real" hangboard phase (performed an injury recovery/ learning phase a couple months ago)
Outdoor Bouldering: Hardest V6 (crimping), Many V4,V5
Outdoor Sport: Hardest 5.11c (Power Endurance crimping); Many low 5.11
- Have only redpointed two routes ever... which I plan to begin doing more and which I fully assume will add more to my progression than any amount of hangboarding. Who would've thunk that actually trying harder routes would be necessary for sending harder routes?!
Board: Metolius Simulator 3d (Unfortunately - public facility)
Sets/ hold: 1
Reps: 6
Duration: 10
Rest: 5
Warmup Jug: BW
5 (Semi-open aka: Chisel): BW-10 (Pretty easy, pinky A4 callous gets irritated)
11 (Half crimp): BW-25
- Feel absolutely no pain in ring finger!
- Pinky felt slightly too hyperextended on one set (make sure to use far side of holds).
12 (MI): BW-20 (Released prior to failure on last rep @ 8s)
11 (Open): BW-??
- Want to swap this grip in to my standard set (replacing IMR jug), for some reason didn't include it initially
- Completed 2 reps at BW-35, before abandoning the set as it was clearly too hard
- Try BW-50 next session
12 (MR): BW-25
- Completed the last set literally at the second of failure (maybe should have stopped a second earlier)
- Was careful to avoid lumbrical issues by not aggressively contracting inactive fingers
- Feels like it has a lot to do with skin friction and passive skeletal/ tendon loading (vs engaging muscles) and feels like my fingers are going to rip out of my hand
- I think I'm going to dial back the weight significantly even though it was technically successful. (BW-40??)
Comments? Suggestions? Flames for claiming to keep ego out of it then posting numbers online? All welcome, cheers!