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Post by cozisco on Aug 2, 2018 10:45:29 GMT -7
Does anyone else have trouble building suitable limit boulder problems on the Tension Board?
I really like the fact that the tension board is mirrored, so I can work both left and right evenly, but all the holds feel too "regular" to me. They're all uniform depth and width, rotated in exact intervals of 45*. Using the anatomy of a limit boulder problem and bouldering for power as a guide, I find it hard to build technically difficult, short, dynamic moves between holds that are complex and difficult to latch. And it's not just handholds, but footholds too. I like the slopey feet, but I'm not sure they require super precise foot placements.
Anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I should just go back to limit bouldering on my gym's main wall?
------------------------------ For reference, limit boulders are typically in the V9-V10 range for me, so I've been using a lot of the convex and concave small crimps. |
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Post by erick on Aug 2, 2018 11:57:07 GMT -7
Im not as strong as you so I guess don't think I really understand what your having trouble achieving. I have found that for most steep walls the holds need to be so positive that it makes latching them (if you can get there) easier than on a 10*-25* for instance. One thing I have done on problems which makes latching much more difficult is to not allow yourself to use your thumb on the pinches. There a quite a few problems where this is possible and it makes them super difficult.
I use my TB to limit boulder a lot but I have personally not found it difficult, but I have found that rarely are my fingers pushed to their limit on it. For me the TB trains limit movement and all the other muscles it take for me to make those limit moves. For personal reference, this spring I was able to get out and put down two V8s and two V9s all in one session (Personal bests) but I have only climbed 1 v8 on the TB and a only a few V7s. So for me the TB is a movement training machine more than a finger training thing at this point. So during power I use it in conjunction with my campus board and if I really want to work a specific movement that I don't feel can be replicated on the TB I also have a 20* wall to set on but this is rarely a problem for me. Like you mentioned I think all the feet are actually really good and would like them to have been made smaller. Like all training tools the TB has its limitations and if you have access to other walls that have problems which will more easily "limit" you than by all means use those. For me, I still suck at steep powerful climbing so its continues to be hugely beneficial for me.
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Post by cozisco on Aug 2, 2018 15:52:18 GMT -7
I guess my problem is that I'm trying to develop the accuracy required to latch complex crimps (i.e., finger placement needs to be exactly right, or you'll come off). I'd like to do that on the TB, since it's 40* overhanging (as are most of my goal routes), mirrored and has wooden holds that don't destroy my skin. Do you feel like the TB has helped you with the accuracy of your dynamic hand placements? In the past, I've tried to develop that accuracy with dynamic moves to small pockets, but maybe I'm just trying to force the tension board into being something it isn't. My other option is a 10* wall, which is significantly less steep than my goal routes. One thing I have done on problems which makes latching much more difficult is to not allow yourself to use your thumb on the pinches I've done this a lot as well. I've heard some criticism that there are too many pinches on the tension board (it is somewhat ironic -- pinches allow you to climb without body tension), but you don't have to use it as a pinch. If you have enough self-discipline, you can always crimp a pinch, but you can't always pinch a crimp! |
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Post by cozisco on Aug 2, 2018 15:52:55 GMT -7
I was able to get out and put down two V8s and two V9s all in one session (Personal bests) Whoa, congrats! That's quite the session! |
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Post by erick on Aug 2, 2018 16:44:43 GMT -7
I guess my problem is that I'm trying to develop the accuracy required to latch complex crimps (i.e., finger placement needs to be exactly right, or you'll come off). I'd like to do that on the TB, since it's 40* overhanging (as are most of my goal routes), mirrored and has wooden holds that don't destroy my skin. Ok that makes sense, I totally see the problem there, yes the TB won't be super helpful since the holds are all so uniform. I think that it actually has helped my accuracy but I think that is probably because I was started from such a bad place to begin with. One idea that I have done to help train this is tape "off" sections of holds. For example I was wanting to train pockets on the TB which has no pockets so I would only allow myself to grab the hold with two or three fingers but would only use the very inside or outside for instance. You could easily throw a small bit of tape just under the edge where you would like your index finger to land. I have really spent more time thinking about this than actually doing it since that has in no way been the actual limiting factor for me. I am still trying to learn to be strong on big moves I can't just lock off and pull through. Good luck and tell me what you figure out. |
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Post by erick on Aug 2, 2018 16:46:12 GMT -7
I was able to get out and put down two V8s and two V9s all in one session (Personal bests) Whoa, congrats! That's quite the session! I can't take that much credit. That was actually four separate sessions but all boulders were climbing on the first day I got on them. Previously my best was V8 now having done two V8s and two V9s so quickly shows some improvement. |
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Post by cirquebound on Aug 7, 2018 10:39:31 GMT -7
If your goal is accuracy - IMO any system board will work. If its a mailbox slot that you are wanting to train. Don't allow for overshooting onto the hold. If you over shoot drop and try again. If its an index precise location on a grip - tick it and do not allow yourself to adjust on the grip. If you miss - drop and try again.
As for the TB I found it to be quite a finger trainer! Movement wasnt the challenge it was holding those crimps...
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Post by cozisco on Sept 7, 2018 10:26:09 GMT -7
Well, I tried quite a few of the suggestions by erick and cirquebound. Taping the holds was pretty effective (I used electrical tape so it wouldn't leave residue), but in the end I felt like I was forcing the TB to be something it's not.
Ironically, I've found that natural features on an old section of my gym's wall are pretty great for limit bouldering (looks something like this: www.climbingcoopers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/gymbackground-5.jpg). I've always disliked that style of wall, so never given it much thought before. But there are lots of complex, intricate crimps that are difficult to latch. Plus, those holds never get taken down and the limit bouldering routes will be around for many training seasons into the future. |
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