|
|
Post by coxxie on Jul 17, 2018 14:37:34 GMT -7
First of all, I'm fairly new to climbing (6 months/ 11a) and have just started my strength phase during my first full seasonal training cycle. My base phase went really well as I saw big improvements in endurance and technique as well as an overall improvement in my climbing ability. I added two weeks on to this phase due to some unforeseen work popping up that made me miss a couple of workouts. I am taking plenty of weight off while preforming the beginner hang boarding routine from RCTM and I am following the seasonal training plan for novice trainee's. My fingers are sore the following day, but feel 100% 36-48 hours after each workout. My problem is that I'm really missing climbing with friends and the optional ARC sessions just aren't doing it for me. I don't have an outdoor crag close enough to me, so can I replace the Opt. ARC sessions with MOD pitches in the gym? If so how many days/hours should I allow my fingers to rest prior to these sessions? I read in the book that you can replace ARC sessions with OM, but that just isn't an option in my case due to the distance to the nearest crag.
|
|
|
|
Post by cozisco on Jul 17, 2018 15:39:54 GMT -7
When you say your fingers are sore, do you mean your fingers (like the skin, joints or tendons?) or forearms (muscles)?
In the novice plan, it's usually best to ARC or get light mileage the day after a HB workout, rather than the day before a workout. If you're too sore for that, I'd decrease the HB weight so you can still climb the next day. Since you haven't been climbing a long time, personally, I think you'd gain more from the mileage right now than from eking out every bit of strength gain during your HB routine.
If I recall correctly, the novice sample training plan in the book suggests 4 pitches of OM and that'd be roughly equivalent in a gym. When swapping outdoor mileage for indoor mileage, the routes tend to be shorter and people don't tend to rest as long between pitches, so be sure to account for that.
|
|
|
|
Post by coxxie on Jul 17, 2018 16:35:07 GMT -7
I get soreness around my PIP joints on either side when bending the fingers, most noticeable in my middle finger.
Noted, thank you for the advice, thinking of dialing it back so that I'll be able to climb more while still making some gains in the finger strength department.
|
|
|
|
Post by cozisco on Jul 17, 2018 22:25:37 GMT -7
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 18, 2018 20:39:46 GMT -7
I get soreness around my PIP joints on either side when bending the fingers, most noticeable in my middle finger. This kind of soreness should get your attention. You're adding a lot of new and unusual stress to the fragile structures of your fingers, so you need to allow your fingers plenty of time to recover. With this in mind, I strongly discourage you from adding any more volume to your training. If you really want to do some climbing, do it instead of a hangboard workout, but not in addition to the workout. You could probably replace as many as every third or every other hangboard workout and still see good gains. |
|
|
|
Post by coxxie on Jul 19, 2018 18:05:19 GMT -7
I'll make sure to pay close attention to my fingers and plan to climb rather than hangboard every third workout, thanks for the reply Mark!
|
|
|
|
Post by Charlie S on Jul 31, 2018 18:06:33 GMT -7
At 6 months, I'd argue your training plan should center more over efficient movement on the rock, learning your body mechanics, and getting your body used to the sport.
Hangboarding is brutal. You can have the strongest fingers but without efficient movement, it's not even half of the equation. That being said, I think you could learn a lot about how to hangboard, but I wouldn't make it a priority yet.
|
|
