I'm about to start my new training season and the Base Fitness phase.
I'm currently living in the countryside and, as surprising as it seems, I cannot get any access to any climbing gym around (actually there isn't). I know I should consider building a home wall, but living in a rented house and being fairly poor at the moment doesn't help... I should find a solution in a few month, probably before I hit the power phase.
So at the moment I've got a hangboard and rings at home, and outside climbing as well. I'll try to do my OM on the rock, but being busy with work during the week, I was wondering if there's any option for simulating ARC on a hangboard ? Like hangs/rest with feet on the ground ? Is it worth it ?
Thanks a lot for helping me to sort this thing out.
Mike wrote a blog post several years about this sort of thing. He was in Afghanistan (I think) at the time. Basically, he installed a small panel underneath his hangboard with footholds on it and got his ARC training in that way. I'd probably look for a good book on tape if I had to ARC that way...
Been doing something resembling ARC recently on my fingerboard:
40 reps of 5 seconds on 5 seconds off
Change holds every 5 reps
x 5 sets in total
Holds include lots of variety: symmetrical / asymmetrical / one arm. Slopers / crimps / front 3 / back 3 / front, middle, back 2 / face out (for undercuts) / straight arm / 90 degree lock / full lock / use of knotted sling.
Active rest with x40 reps of floor bench press with 25 kg weight, some banded work and one armers with knotted sling (not ARC but something I'm working on at present).
Average intensity is about 3 / 10. Thinking of upping the reps from 40 to 80 lots of 5 seconds on 5 seconds off as the weeks progress...
I was under the impression that Mike did his ARC training on the hangboard the same way he did it on his wall at home, like 2 x 30 minute sets, etc.
Regarding the book on tape, I was implying that doing a full ARC session on a hangboard could get a little boring, so finding something to entertain yourself while you're hanging, like listening to an audio book or podcast, could help pass the time.
Agree is not classical ARC but once I get up to 80 reps think this will be around 30 min of (accumulated) loaded finger action. Key is the intensity which I think have got about right. Not too boring just yet but have only done a few sessions so far.