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Post by solwertkin on May 11, 2018 21:13:51 GMT -7
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Post by RobF on May 13, 2018 9:44:57 GMT -7
Excellent, loads of really good advice. I'm gonna put it on one side and re-read at regular intervals.
Before I had my first I was saying goodbye to all my favourite crags thinking I'd never see them ever again.
Now mine are at an age where they need driving to friends and sports almost every night. Makes for interesting programming whereby I'll warm up for 20 min, then drive around for 20 min then back to session for about an hour then go for pick up and then finish off session. Main problem is maintaining vigour over an extended period but in a way it's like a day out when you're swopping over goes on routes...
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Post by jetjackson on May 13, 2018 18:48:02 GMT -7
This is great, as someone who is currently doing the 'baby-moon'-ish thing. We want to start a family next year, and so I'm trying to get as much as I can in before then, I'll certainly be coming back to this for guidance.
I get the bouldering thing - I think that where I am - bouldering in the Grampians will be much more feasible, many of the crags here are not child friendly. Trad climbing and sport on hard grades at the Arapiles nearby, should also be feasible however.
One thing that we don't talk much about in this forum, or have not, is the financial/work aspect of this. Understandably, it can be a very personal subject. Balancing career and climbing is almost a post in, and of itself. However, I think it plays a central part in one's ability to maintain climbing through raising a family. If you have more flexibility around that aspect I think it can help. Personally, my wife and I follow the MMM or FIRE strategy, that is be frugal, save and invest. We're not as super frugal as MMM, who cuts his own hair to save money, but we don't spend like people in our work/family/social scene - although I find our climbing friends are pretty frugal. The hope for me is that in 5-6 years, I can downshift from what is a pretty committing career at present, and find a more part-time or casual role that will allow for multiple-month trips to international destinations, and extended crag trips. I know that other climbers have done this, and use investment income to supplement a part-time or other income.
Another question I would have for the parents out there, is how much did having children change your world view? Climbing is a bit of an arbitrary pursuit in ways, do you become a parent and all of a sudden climbing just seems fickle? Is motivation an issue?
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Post by daustin on May 14, 2018 6:26:02 GMT -7
Another question I would have for the parents out there, is how much did having children change your world view? Climbing is a bit of an arbitrary pursuit in ways, do you become a parent and all of a sudden climbing just seems fickle? Is motivation an issue? My daughter is just about 6 months old now, and honestly it hasn’t changed my worldview drastically yet, especially with regards to climbing. Maybe that will change as she gets older, who knows. If anything, having a kid requires so much sacrifice that it made me realize how much I needed to have something of my own to keep myself feeling like me and not go too crazy. I haven’t been climbing outdoors since she was born, but once she’s sitting on her own (soon!) and we can put her in a backpack carrier, I’m definitely planning on trying some outdoor bouldering with her and the wife. In the meantime, I’ll keep chugging away at trying to get my fingers stronger, hangboarding in my garage and gym climbing on the weekends |
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Post by jetjackson on May 14, 2018 16:15:22 GMT -7
Did it change your perception of risk at all? I think that's the other way that I have considered it might affect me. I'll probably at least take out life insurance once I have children.
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Post by daustin on May 14, 2018 21:31:01 GMT -7
Did it change your perception of risk at all? I think that's the other way that I have considered it might affect me. I'll probably at least take out life insurance once I have children. Not really, but only because I’d already become a total wuss with respect to climbing well before I became a dad. I got my fill of soloing easy terrain and highball bouldering with inadequate padding when I was younger, but admittedly it didn’t take very much at all to get my fill  Well-bolted sport and well-padded blocs are more than good enough for me |
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Post by solwertkin on May 15, 2018 9:48:26 GMT -7
My risk aversion and tolerances have definetly changed as I've had kids and as they've gotten older. I did my last big gnar gnar climbs before we started trying for number one, the 2nd ascent of the Southern Picket Range Enchainment, 8 days of loose rock, exposed bivies, and lots of R rated ground up to 5.10R. I did do a couple big faces since having kids including Under Fire on the North Howser Tower in the Bugs, and The Jaded Lady on Mt Hooker. Though not as loose and unprotected as some of my previous ascents there were still some uncomfortable moments on those climbs as they're big hard intimidating faces with some heads up climbing at times. Since then I continue to change focus and am more interested in technically harder though more solid and protected multipitch climbs (East Face of Liberty Bell, long classic free climbs of the West: RAinbow Wall, U Wall etc. And even that is fading as I become more and more psyched on sport climbing.
One thing that has completely changed is my feelings on skiing/snowboarding. AFter 30+ years of sliding on snow I've pretty much completely given it up. This decision was spurred on by a number of tragic avalanche deaths in our local community over the last decade, a couple close calls, and the realization that the more you know about backcountry skiing, the less you can accurately predict stability and safety.
Without a doubt I'm more psyched then ever to train hard and throw down, but I't's a game of quality over quantity. Nice balance in our household to have dad's climbing gym in the carport so I can get my training done as needed, get mom her free time as I can, and when it's time to peak and send go get 'er done.
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 9, 2019 22:10:49 GMT -7
Hey Sol, How did your climbing progress over the 3 year period of having 2 children? Purely from a performance perspective? Did you gain strength/power?
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Post by Chris W on Apr 10, 2019 17:34:03 GMT -7
I've got 4, and am still getting stronger. My 2 cents
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Post by Will B. on Apr 14, 2019 19:31:47 GMT -7
Hey All, I actually came here to post on this and saw that the topic already existed. Thanks for all the good advice as I am about o have my first kid. Started my second RCTM season and am finishing up the ARC phase with my first kid being due in about 2 weeks. Luckily I have the hang board at home and a gym at my apartment so was planing on bunkering down and doing a long strength phase. Sounds like that is what a lot of you all did as well. I plan to hit the gym some Saturday mornings if/when possible. I only have quick access to a hangboard and fitness gym and plan to stick to that for quite a few months. What were your typical routines with the hour/2 you could make work. And if you had a similar set up how did you mix it up or did you stick to the hangboard the whole time?
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Post by mikekane on Apr 23, 2019 13:05:28 GMT -7
Hi Will. First of all congrats on the new addition. I have a 5 month old now... get ready for the whirlwind....
As for what you should be doing, I think it might be hard to make continuous progress doing a never-ending strength phase. If you go this route, definitely take frequent rest weeks. And consider mixing in some alternate protocols such as max hangs to hopefully prevent stagnation
For a more RCTM-like idea... somewhere in the bowels of the internet, Mike Anderson wrote a blog post about what he did to train in Afghanistan (I couldn't find it just now, but if you search you probably can dig it up). To summarize, I think he did the following:
1) ARC on a hangboard with a kicker plate
2) strength phase per usual
3) for power, he built a portable campus board he mounted to a pull up bar (design was in the article)
4) forget what he did for PE but if you can't find the article maybe you could use the above campus board for intervals. Check out Steve Bechtel's rhythm intervals on climbstrong.com (you'll have to sign up for a free account)
I know you probably can't build one in an apartment, but having a home wall (even if it's like 6 feet tall) will be a God-send as a dad if you can manage it
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Post by jetjackson on Jun 14, 2019 20:27:40 GMT -7
So it looks like I'll be trying to implement some of Sol's plans over the next 12 months. Wife is due with our first in December. Already trying to plan an Autumn trip to Smith Rock next year I hear that the time between 3 and 9 months is the best for travel. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 15, 2019 8:52:17 GMT -7
Congrats man!!!
They’re definitely pretty easy to climb with at that age. 12 hour flights? I dunno. At the end of the day it’s more about what Mommy is up for. Babies can’t tell the difference.
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Well-bolted sport and well-padded blocs are more than good enough for me
