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Post by RobF on Apr 17, 2018 11:22:45 GMT -7
Doing a management course at the moment. Last session we were discussing not being stuck doing the same old things / the generation of new ideas and new ways of working. We had a 30 min challenge of brainstorming 100 new ways to solve a problem. There were no rules on what was allowed / not allowed to be included. Critism was not permitted as this might upset the creative processes.
I do like searching out new ways of training: so I'd like to see if it's possible to generate 100 ideas of how to strengthen fingers...
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Post by RobF on Apr 17, 2018 11:26:08 GMT -7
Couple things I've been doing this week-
I had a good one foot on campus session (with added weight vest) with 15 breath holds on each move.
Also had a 20 min captain of crush workout whilst doing the weekly shop at the supermarket.
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Post by RobF on Apr 17, 2018 11:26:32 GMT -7
98 to go...
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Post by RobF on Apr 17, 2018 11:53:01 GMT -7
Two more that I've done recently.
Lat pull down machine in the gym/ various finger combinations (front 3, back 3, front-middle-back 2) locking off at various levels for about 5 breaths. Worked ok so long as got the balance point right with the handle.
Out for a walk- found some small smooth round stones. Got a handful and did some submax squeezes. Felt rather therapeutic.
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Post by daustin on Apr 17, 2018 17:05:12 GMT -7
When I was getting into shape for ski season, I would do lunges with weight plates in each hand, holding them by the lip with a half crimp
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Post by jrblack on Apr 17, 2018 20:12:59 GMT -7
I will sometimes open-grip the handle of my shopping cart and lift the two near-wheels off the floor while I'm walking down the aisle at the grocery store. Ridiculous? Yup.
For a more intense session, front-load the cart with beer.
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Post by korduroy on Apr 18, 2018 4:05:48 GMT -7
The good old fashioned grocery bag carry. Number of bags varies by each individual fingers strength
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Post by RobF on Apr 18, 2018 5:31:47 GMT -7
Some good answers. Keep them coming. Someone I know used to walk his dog on a lead alternating fingers.
Couple others from this week- some knotted rope climbing up and down and quickdraw pull-ups. Also did a pyramid sesh on a doorframe (1,2,3,4,5,4,3,2,1) but that's a bit ordinary. Trying to think of other things really. Car based ones would be good for crag warm ups...
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Post by climber511 on Apr 18, 2018 6:28:32 GMT -7
One hand Plate pinch - smooth sides out - 2x25 - 2x35 - 2x45# - 5x10# plates. Carry for time or distance Two hand plate pinch - smooth sides out - various combinations Stand a dumbbell on end - lift by the head with one hand. Dumbbell on floor pinch - pinch the "bells" with each hand and lift. Lever a sledge hammer in all directions - include "rotational Dead Lift a "fat handle" dumbbell or barbell - 2" to 3.5" Lift anvils by the horn or by the tail Rim lifts and carries - grab a plate by the "rim" - lift and/or carry for distance Strap lifts or holds with a COC Gripper - place a strap between the handles with a light weight attached - squeeze the handles onto the strap and lift/hold Inverted COC closes "Key pinch" a thin plate with a weight attached "Plywood lift" with one or two hands Rafter pullups Bar hangs for time Finger curls Wrist curls Reverse wrist curls Hammer curls Zottman curls Weaver Stick lifts Rope climbing There are many more - many of these are hardly climbing specific but all build "grip" strength
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Post by RobF on Apr 18, 2018 13:39:14 GMT -7
All good stuff.
Chopping logs
Arm wrestling- been watching some Devon Larratt technique masterclass clips on Utube. Really interesting how subtle differences in ulna deviation and supination affect grip strength.
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Post by stahax on Apr 20, 2018 5:58:26 GMT -7
I used to do a lot of sculling with one- or two-finger grips. Probably doesn't help with strength but a different way to do ARCing.
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Post by RobF on Apr 20, 2018 10:17:14 GMT -7
Here's a real tendon ripper. Using the small tag to pull on tight climbing shoes...
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Post by scojo on Apr 20, 2018 12:36:41 GMT -7
Here's a real tendon ripper. Using the small tag to pull on tight climbing shoes... I learned that the hard way. I'm conscious not to use my ring finger for doing this now.
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