Post by srossabi42 on Apr 6, 2018 11:39:45 GMT -7
At the moment, my climbing shows signs of being limited by power endurance. On routes that I am unlikely to send in 10-20 tries, I can usually do all the moves within 2 tries, 1 or 2 hang within 4 tries, but not really improve over the next several tries. While I certainly could improve my fitness, I think I have technical deficiencies that need to be addressed.
My climbing style is heavy on deadpoints and lockoffs. I do a pretty good job of getting my feet up high, but when faced with a difficult move I am more likely to bear down and deadpoint then I am to find a more technical and static solution.
I don't recover well at rests, especially in overhanging terrain. They are not totally useless but I'm not leaving them feeling fresh. Part of the problem may be that I often sag into the rests. Maybe if I kept some body tension, it might allow my forearms to recover better. I try to take deep breaths and slow my heart rate at rests, but it is certainly possible that I am not regulating my breathing enough on sustained sections of routes. Also, a hold has to be pretty amazing for me to get anything back. If a rest is just ok, I tend to charge past.
I have a few ideas about how to address these problems.
-Climb routes at onsight level as slowly and statically as possible, forcing myself to move my feet more and use marginal rests
(I can typically onsight climbs 2-3 letter grades lower the climbs I am unlikely to send in 10-20 tries, and do climbs a letter grade or two lower in less than 5 tries.
-Climb routes at onsight level back to back. I think this would force me to climb more efficiently and use more marginal rests
-ARC and only allow myself to rest on rests I might find on routes at my limit
Do any of these sound like a good plan to address my weaknesses? Do you have other suggestions?
My climbing style is heavy on deadpoints and lockoffs. I do a pretty good job of getting my feet up high, but when faced with a difficult move I am more likely to bear down and deadpoint then I am to find a more technical and static solution.
I don't recover well at rests, especially in overhanging terrain. They are not totally useless but I'm not leaving them feeling fresh. Part of the problem may be that I often sag into the rests. Maybe if I kept some body tension, it might allow my forearms to recover better. I try to take deep breaths and slow my heart rate at rests, but it is certainly possible that I am not regulating my breathing enough on sustained sections of routes. Also, a hold has to be pretty amazing for me to get anything back. If a rest is just ok, I tend to charge past.
I have a few ideas about how to address these problems.
-Climb routes at onsight level as slowly and statically as possible, forcing myself to move my feet more and use marginal rests
(I can typically onsight climbs 2-3 letter grades lower the climbs I am unlikely to send in 10-20 tries, and do climbs a letter grade or two lower in less than 5 tries.
-Climb routes at onsight level back to back. I think this would force me to climb more efficiently and use more marginal rests
-ARC and only allow myself to rest on rests I might find on routes at my limit
Do any of these sound like a good plan to address my weaknesses? Do you have other suggestions?