About a year ago I hurt my left shoulder in a way that I thought was really strange: sudden unloading after a deep lock-off.
In other words, I had a hold locked off around my waist when I suddenly fell and all-at-once unweighted my left hand. The "shock" of unloading my shoulder suddenly in this position really tweaked it. I have been rehabbing it for months and it's finally getting better.
Then yesterday I did the same thing to my right shoulder. Ugh.
I've searched around for information on this, but haven't really found anything. Is this a common way to hurt your shoulder climbing? Is there a good regimen to rehab it? And to prehab for future injury-prevention?
I have hurt what I thought was my rotator cuff doing a deep lock off on a gaston. Didn't fall or anything, just did the move one too many times.
Anyway, I rehabbed it by stretching the shoulder about 3 times a day, doing 3 sets of 30 secs. I'd grab my rings, lean and find where the pain was, and just try to stretch it out in that position. Then with really easy bands I'd do is, ys, ts, and progressed to weights. Lately I've been doing a lot of ring exercises for SEs and find these really have made my shoulder feel stronger. I still do stretching and I'm hoping the ring work plus stretching keeps futute shoulder stuff at bay, but I try to be careful about doing any deep shoulder moves more than a few times a session.
Lately I've been doing a lot of ring exercises for SEs and find these really have made my shoulder feel stronger. I still do stretching and I'm hoping the ring work plus stretching keeps futute shoulder stuff at bay, but I try to be careful about doing any deep shoulder moves more than a few times a session.
Right now these are my SEs on the rings, all really for shoulder/core: 1. Dips 2. Inverted tuck roll chin up 3. L sit from top position 4. Skin the cat 5. Assisted tucked shoulder stand
I generally try for 6-8 reps per set, and I increase sets every week.
What's "inverted tuck roll chin up"? Is that basically a ring row in a tucked front lever position?
Do you do the external rotation with your arms when you're in the dig support position? I found that helps with shoulder stability too. In fact, I do the ring support hold external/internal rotation as an exercise by itself.
The inverted tuck roll chin up is a fun one. I start in an inverted hang->tuck my legs->roll forward slow and let palms rotate forward->reverse movement all the way back to inverted hang for 1 rep. Here's a video of someone doing it similar to how I do it: youtu.be/DWkV0P8D8k8
I do turn the rings out in the top position. It is one of the exercises I started with when doing the rings and I love it for shoulder stability. I still incorporate it into my routine, but rather than do it as a standalone, I do it in my L sit to kill two birds with one stone.