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Post by Chris W on Mar 7, 2018 18:12:18 GMT -7
Anyone experiment with doing outdoor bouldering during the power phase to substitute for limit bouldering on a wall?
1) I can see a potential for outdoor bouldering to turn into "hard bouldering" as opposed to "limit bouldering"
2) Setting up the desired physical stimulus for training seems easier to do on a wall
3) Outdoor bouldering would have a higher possibility of injury (in the form of rolled ankles, bumps and bruises, etc).
4) Outdoor bouldering should provide a greater exposure to problem variety, since I'm the only one who sets on my wall
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Post by scojo on Mar 7, 2018 19:40:28 GMT -7
Here are some more disadvantages I can think of:
1) Outdoor bouldering can wreck your skin (at least in my local area >_>) 2) Larger time commitment 3) Less movement variety (depends on the area I guess) 4) Spend a lot more time working out microbeta rather than making moves
Here are some more advantages I can think of:
1) Actually practicing technique on rock 2) Learn how to try hard on rock rather than plastic, which can get you ready to try hard on your roped projects 3) Can learn a lot from the local crushers 4) You get to send boulder problems!
So I think it's better than indoor bouldering in that you'll gain a lot in terms of technique and practice on real rock. However, I'd agree than it's hard to attain the optimal physical training stimulus.
If I have an outdoor session and I feel like I didn't get the desired training stimulus for my fingers, sometimes I'll add a session of max hangs later in the evening.
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 7, 2018 23:33:24 GMT -7
On a base level, I'd rather be outdoors. Power isn't a significant issue for me though, and so I have really deprioritized the power phase in my training cycle these days.
I did do a video on Limit Bouldering outdoors on my YT channel - in it I was concentrating on problems at the hard end of the scale for me, so longer term projects. I tried to focus on problems that were dynamic in nature. Although I think in general it's going to be harder to get a variety of dynamic movement outdoors.
I have always had more risk of injury indoors than outdoors, simply because of the ability to do a significant amount of volume in a short period of time. I think the nature of outdoors doesn't lend itself to that as easily.
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Post by Chris W on Mar 8, 2018 4:53:50 GMT -7
In part, I really want to be outdoors. I get very little outdoor climbing in at this stage of my life, and doing some outdoor bouldering would give me another change to get out on real rock.
I'm also wondering if the exposure to different moves on real rock would be more or less beneficial than an indoor LB session.
Skin is rarely an issue for me. Our boulders are SHARP, and the rock is rough, so it can wear skin down pretty quickly, but mine seems to heal fast and our local routes (roped climbing is what I really like) are fairly skin friendly.
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Post by daustin on Mar 8, 2018 7:02:02 GMT -7
Obviously this can vary dramatically depending on your local stone, but I think in general real rock requires more tension and power generation using the full body, which is a significant advantage over plastic. Between that and the other advantages, I would definitely try to LB outdoors if it wasn’t for the convenient proximity of plastic.
As with any Lb session, you just would have to be extra vigilant about staying committed to the process and not get caught up trying to send hard boulders.
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on Mar 8, 2018 12:14:52 GMT -7
I'm lucky enough to have boulders within 10 minutes of my house. I usually boulder outdoors at least 2-3 half days in early spring during strength or power phases. It's really hard to find convenient limit moves, but I feel like the benefits of skill practice and psyche-building for the redpointing season to come outweigh the drawbacks. I like working and sending boulder problems almost as much as sport routes (okay, maybe a third as much, but that's still a lot).
Also, if I keep the outdoor session short and less intense, recovery is pretty quick and I'm comfortable doing normal power training 24 hours later - best of both worlds.
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Post by stanleybaker on Mar 8, 2018 14:29:02 GMT -7
As with any Lb session, you just would have to be extra vigilant about staying committed to the process and not get caught up trying to send hard boulders. I've been feeling this lately. I'm doing limit bouldering and I'm finding myself feeling like I'm just projecting a hard boulder. What do you think are the differences? Just the strictness of the number of attempts for the session?
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Post by scojo on Mar 8, 2018 15:15:29 GMT -7
As with any Lb session, you just would have to be extra vigilant about staying committed to the process and not get caught up trying to send hard boulders. I've been feeling this lately. I'm doing limit bouldering and I'm finding myself feeling like I'm just projecting a hard boulder. What do you think are the differences? Just the strictness of the number of attempts for the session? I feel differently when it comes to outdoor bouldering. I'm picking boulder problems that I actually want to send, as in they are part of my season's goals. If I have to sacrifice a bit of training effect in order to send, then I'm happy. If you're completely route focussed and don't care about sending boulder problems, then it'd be optimal to treat it more like a regular indoor LB session.
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 8, 2018 15:22:00 GMT -7
Yeah, with outdoor limit bouldering, I'm just picking boulders that are a couple of number grades above my current hardest boulder. Things that maybe I'll be able to do in another 3-6 seasons time.
Going back to the book, there is the diagram showing the intensity of a limit boulder session vs. your level - intermediate, advanced etc.
The book seems to put 5.12 as the intermediate climber, and 5.13 as the advanced. I'm in the intermediate bracket. It had intermediate climbers doing hard boulders up to limit boulders - so my hardest boulder is currently V6. So I'm doing V8 limit boulders outdoors, and some V7 boulders that are dynamic in nature.
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Post by suprcrmpr on Mar 9, 2018 2:19:23 GMT -7
I thought all this indoor-training-schedule-stuff was to get better when you have the chance to go actually climbing?
Now you're asking if you should stay indoors because going outside to do proper climbing interferes with your excel spreadsheet?
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Post by Chris W on Mar 9, 2018 20:50:39 GMT -7
I thought all this indoor-training-schedule-stuff was to get better when you have the chance to go actually climbing? Now you're asking if you should stay indoors because going outside to do proper climbing interferes with your excel spreadsheet? My priority is sport climbing and improving my sport climbing ability, not bouldering. If my only goal was to climb outside, I would do nothing BUT bouldering, and I wouldn't bother training.
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