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Post by jetjackson on Feb 7, 2018 18:44:04 GMT -7
Was just looking at the blog post on the forge and I note that in the picture it is being used as to mimic a full crimp - or at least it looks that way. I love training on this hold btw. It makes the crimp feel a lot more secure with the thumb there and unlike on the RPTC I don't feel like I could just slip off at any point and shock load my tendons. I've been doing it with the tip of my thumb on the thumb part, where it looks like in the picture below that it's more the side of the thumb joint being used. Is there an intended form for this grip in terms of the thumb position? I figure even though I'm using the tip of my thumb, that mimics pushing down on the dip joint with the tip of my thumb, which obviously in real climbing I'd do very sparingly. Edit: I dug up an instagram story screenshot of how I'm gripping it.   |
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Post by aikibujin on Feb 7, 2018 21:15:30 GMT -7
Can't help you with the question on thumb position, but are you actually able to hang from the hand position in the second photo (the Instagram photo)? Your DIP joint is not hyperextended and even flexed a little. I'd be super impressed if you can hold that joint angle with bodyweight.
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 7, 2018 22:23:53 GMT -7
So in that photo I'm just showing what the grip looks like, so no body weight on it, but my thumb position stays the same when I put weight on it. Here's a pic below with some weight on - starting low as early in on HB phase.  |
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Post by tetrault on Feb 8, 2018 6:17:38 GMT -7
Maybe I have poor grip form, but I found that as I got more and more pumped, my thumb would creep further over the thumb support until it was actually putting weight on the index finger DIP. Seemed like it wasn't worth the risk for training purposes. Even after realizing this, I would half-consciously let my thumb move further onto the support when only placing the thumb tip on the support initially. I added a screw not cranked down flush as a thumb position index to keep it off my index finger. Full disclosure, I have since switched to using a wooden crimp. I also hangboard upside down... Sorry these pics keep showing up that way.   |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 8, 2018 9:29:28 GMT -7
I also hangboard upside down... LOL! We've talked about making a board that could be flipped upside down, in order to essentially double the number of grips available for a given amount of plastic...
Anyway, I see you also have a shim to lessen the depth of the Thumb support? I also use a shim. (Bitter Old Man Rant: when designing the Forge, I advocated strongly for a shallower Thumb Support, but was over-ruled. What do I know? I just single-handedly designed the most popular hangboard of all time, and came up with the idea of using a thumb support, which I tested for years before designing the Forge....)
Anyway, Jackson, The idea is to but the 135-degree corner of the Thumb Support right in the crook of your thumb IP joint. This would place the upper pad of your thumb directly over your index finger nail, but ideally without placing much pressure on your Index finger. Obviously if you have thicker fingers or longer thumbs, YMMV. I certainly don't see any down-side to how you are using the thumb support. The intent of the support is to mimic a thumb wrapped crimp without placing the added stress on the Index finger DIP joint. So do whatever makes sense to achieve that.
Also, you misspelled "favorite", lol
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Post by jetjackson on Feb 8, 2018 18:37:02 GMT -7
If you can type properly om a smart phone after that crimp, you're not trying hard enough.
Also, that's how we spell it in Australia and the rest of the non-US world... in case that comment wasn't tongue in cheek.
Thanks for the assurance. I might have a quick go at doing it the other way and see what works best.
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Post by tetrault on Feb 22, 2018 9:33:15 GMT -7
We've talked about making a board that could be flipped upside down, in order to essentially double the number of grips available for a given amount of plastic...
Anyway, I see you also have a shim to lessen the depth of the Thumb support? I also use a shim. (Bitter Old Man Rant: when designing the Forge, I advocated strongly for a shallower Thumb Support, but was over-ruled. What do I know? I just single-handedly designed the most popular hangboard of all time, and came up with the idea of using a thumb support, which I tested for years before designing the Forge....) Quality over quantity as far as holds go! Also, thumb support was an excellent idea and I am not sure I would have started using a shim if I didn't see you doing so in a post. Do you do it because the deep support seemed to take an unrealistic amount of weight off the index finger/work the thumb more than desired? ....sounds more like an "unappreciated man" rant to me. "Bitter old man" might be more along the lines of; back in my day we had to whittle our own thumb supports out of whale bone and now these kids don't even know how to use them!  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 22, 2018 10:39:00 GMT -7
Yes.
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55 
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Post by richb on Mar 5, 2018 7:34:39 GMT -7
Just got my Forge mounted and used it for the first time last night. Mark, what depth did you originally intend the thumb support to be? And how thick are the shims you guys are using?
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Post by tetrault on Mar 5, 2018 19:38:39 GMT -7
My shims are about 3/32". Arbitrary thickness to get the thumb support less deep than the crimp itself. They are 2 layers of non-corrugated cardboard covered by 1 layer of duct tape for durability I think I initially tried a 3rd layer, but the thumb support was too painful on the thumb skin for my liking. |
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