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Post by alibabaroger on Oct 24, 2014 8:38:13 GMT -7
I have a question about tactics, redpointing a hard 5.13c power-endurance route. The route is about 25 moves long and it takes me around 2:30 minutes to complete the climb, there is a short rest after the first third of the route and then it just continues.. So far i can one-hang it with just about 30 seconds of rest, but these 30 seconds just change everything. Before falling my whole body is pumped (a lot of body tension is required), and then I rest for a short period and complete the moves quite easily..
My question is wheter I should continue projecting the route (i can get to the route around twice a week) until i have enough endurance to complete it or if you would recommend spending some time indoors getting the right power-endurance for it?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 1, 2014 8:53:31 GMT -7
It sounds like you're really close. If I were you I would keep working the route until you send. If possible, it might be helpful to stack a short gym PE workout on top of your outdoor session once per week. So, you would go climbing, try to send, and then hit the gym/woodie on your way home for a SHORT LBC session (45 min or less total: 10 min warmup, depending on the length of commute, then 4 sets with 1:1 duty cycle) LBC session.
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Post by alibabaroger on Nov 2, 2014 13:06:13 GMT -7
Sounds good. Thanks a lot..
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