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Post by Lundy on Jan 29, 2018 20:26:04 GMT -7
Are these too small for a 45? I get that probably Adam Ondra would make nothing of them, but for someone bouldering in the V7-V9 range, is that a ridiculous thought, or money well spent? Here's the link, for those who don't recognize by the name alone! www.e-grips.com/p-192-2tex-pure-crimps.aspxThanks for the input! Also, to train smaller holds (and real slopers), I obviously need to build a less steep wall. Value in a 20 degree wall if the ceiling height is only about 8'6" and the width would only be maybe 10'? So about 85 sq ft of space? Yeeha.
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Post by erick on Jan 29, 2018 20:35:52 GMT -7
Those holds would be nearly impossible on a 45. I could barely make the work on a 30 and they feel real nice on the 20 I have now.
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Post by Lundy on Jan 29, 2018 20:39:09 GMT -7
Those holds would be nearly impossible on a 45. I could barely make the work on a 30 and they feel real nice on the 20 I have now. Thanks, man. That's what I was guessing.
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Post by erick on Jan 29, 2018 20:50:45 GMT -7
They are awesome holds though. If you have a wall that’s less steep I would definitely get them.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 30, 2018 19:10:15 GMT -7
About half of mine are on the 35, and the other half are on the ~10. On the 35, they are almost always cruxy and on problems in the V10 and up range. There are one or two holds in the set that are uncharacteristically large, and those would work on a 45, but you wouldn’t buy the set for those holds.
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Post by Lundy on Jan 30, 2018 20:00:13 GMT -7
Thanks, Mark. What do folks think about the value of adding a 20 degree wall that's as small as I was noting above -- 8.5' tall, maybe I could get 10' wide (though obviously 8 makes construction a lot easier...)? With that little angle, I feel like they'd all be two move problems. Might still be worth it, though, given the angle of most rock in the US...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 30, 2018 21:15:03 GMT -7
A wall of that size would not be very good for bouldering, but it could be useful for warming up or ARCing. I have some problems on my 10 degree Wall. Some of them are pretty worthwhile but the reject rate is much higher than on the 35. But, my 10 degree Wall is also over 10’, which obviously makes a big difference. I think it would be tough to set quality problems with 2’ less height to work with, especially for a taller climber, although the steeper angle would help.
Why not make it a bit steeper and get more length? 30 would be a good angle.
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Post by Chris W on Jan 31, 2018 16:43:56 GMT -7
One of my walls is 15 degrees, and I only have one limit problem on it [but it's a good one]. I almost exclusively use the 15 for ARCing. I'd probably try for a 30 [or a 35, which is what my main wall is].
Alternatively, you could move to York, PA, buy a house with a pole barn, and I'd come over and help you build your wall. We could then climb together during the few good weeks of weather in the fall and in the spring. Our wives could hang out and do whatever wives do when they're together, the kids could pass germs back and forth, and everyone would be happy.
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Post by Lundy on Jan 31, 2018 19:58:28 GMT -7
Why not make it a bit steeper and get more length? 30 would be a good angle. For some reason, I had it in my head that if I already have a good 45 (it's 18' long, in that 8.5' height), that anything steeper than a 20 would basically be emulating a lot of the same skills. But I guess there's actually a pretty huge difference between 45 and 30, and my space and ability to set sloper and slimper problems (my major weaknesses) would probably go up a lot. NIce. Let me start prepping the wife to take over the other garage bay.
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Post by Lundy on Jan 31, 2018 20:00:10 GMT -7
Alternatively, you could move to York, PA, buy a house with a pole barn, and I'd come over and help you build your wall. We could then climb together during the few good weeks of weather in the fall and in the spring. Our wives could hang out and do whatever wives do when they're together, the kids could pass germs back and forth, and everyone would be happy. HAHAHA. Nice. I'll get right on that after you find me a job.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 1, 2018 2:52:56 GMT -7
Who needs a job? I'm going to win the lottery, just as soon as I start playing.
With regards to slopers and sloping crimps, I've caught myself wondering if it has more to do with technique than strength. Possibly things like body position and the ability to hold a stable body position. I don't know the answer to that question.
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Post by avaserfi on Feb 1, 2018 14:43:20 GMT -7
With regards to slopers and sloping crimps, I've caught myself wondering if it has more to do with technique than strength. Possibly things like body position and the ability to hold a stable body position. I don't know the answer to that question. This definitely mirrors my experience. I rarely find that getting stronger is the best solution. Finding better body positioning, good body tension, utilizing momentum and generating movement from my lower body yields the best results.
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Post by Lundy on Feb 1, 2018 18:54:54 GMT -7
Oh yeah - I totally agree. Which is why I want a wall vertical enough to practice on those holds. I'm not good at finding just the right balance and position and figuring out how to use my weight, hips, and feet to move through those sections rather than just pulling harder...
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Post by climbnkev on Feb 1, 2018 20:20:16 GMT -7
I think that the ceiling height should be the primary determining factor in your home wall building. Select an angle that gives you 10 feet of wall height at the minimum, with 12 feet being ideal. Select holds to suit the wall, don't build walls to suit your holds. It's really hard to focus on your technique when you only have a single body span to work with.
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