Favorite Climbs in RRG

[Jack Ziegler]

For those that have frequented Red River Gorge, what are your favorite climbs?

I'll be there for 10 days in the beginning October and it'll be my first time.

I'll jump on anything up to mid 12 (or maybe more, is it true that the grades are soft?)

I tend to gravitate to projecting the very technical climbs or ones with lots of rests, but I'd like to hear some favorites to get psyched!

[Chris W]

-Pogue Ethics (9), Phantasia crag, nice and tall, good warm up
-Possum Lips (10), Military Wall, thin and technical
-Workin' for the weekend (10?), Bruise Brothers Wall, Muir Valley
-Critter on a cliff (10?), Bruise Brothers Wall, Muir Valley

Been a few years since I've been there, but I'm headed back in mid October for a week long trip to (hopefully) send my first 12a. I love the red. Don't know where you normally climb, but a lot of the harder grades at the red are a bit more sustained and overhanging. The red is huge though, so I'm sure if you look in the guide book from Wolverine Publishing I'm sure you can find something to keep your interest.

[tedwelser]

Here are a couple suggestions from the older crags.

Mercy the Huff is one of the best 12b/c lines in the US. The line is gorgeous, the rock is varied in color and formation, it overhangs the whole 80 feet, and it rewards technical skill and resting ability. Now most everyone climbs the 12b variation (moving right slightly in the final section to the chains) but Porter initially graded it 12c for the clear line straight up, locking off some decent crimps. pic here: www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/img/450a9e816cc48

In general I would suggest that Torrent Falls has wonderful routes especially on the 5.11 and 5.12 walls (Bandoleer[sp?] is a great 11a) . You have to register online at like 6:30 am, but it is totally worth a visit.

The Red is too extensive geographically and historically to be characterized as soft or hard. I think some of the recent routes in Muir valley can seem easier than the rating but on the other hand, some, like Soul Ram or Bare Metal Teen are quite stout.

[EMCDP]

Amarillo Sunset is the best pitch of sport climbing I have ever done at any grade.

[brendann]

Orange Juice (5.12c) is about as good as rock climbing gets.

[ken]

Amarillo Sunset is definitely a very aesthetic climb and shouldn't be missed, but I wouldn't even call it the best 11b in the Red when there is King Me to contend with! I think the Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge 11's are all pretty great.

[jonfrisby]

Didn't send, but got through the crux - infectious at Left Flank is a very very fun boulder problem