Hi guys - so I have a -3" wingspan. I want to figure out what the best exercises and areas of focus for me should be to best overcome this. I like bouldering primarily, so I'm especially interested in what I can do to make up the shortcoming (ha). Wasn't sure where to post this, but I figure skill development might be appropriate.
So far, I've been thinking: - Lock off laps - Footwork drills? - Lots of stretching for increasing mobility.
Any thoughts on other skills to practice, supplemental exercises, etc?
Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 31, 2017 8:18:52 GMT -7
I think lock-off ability is huge when making big reaches. Particularly the ability to lock off really low, like well below shoulder-level. When I see people failing on reaches its usually because they can't pull the hold down below their shoulder. Finger strength is a contributor with this too, since the higher you pull past a hold, the more you pull out on it, which effectively makes the hold worse (less positive). It's possible the pinch strength could come into play here as well.
Also, I heard Michael Jordan used to hang from a bar when he was a kid to make himself taller. I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat.
I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat.
I just recently discovered my Ape has improved. It's massive, around +7. The reason it improved, however, is because apparently I've shrunk a little since I last measured my height for real, when I was in college. I used to say I was close to 5'10", but apparently I'm barely 5'9".
One of my good climbing buddies, BTW, has a negative Ape, but it doesn't slow him down at all. He literally warms up on the climbs I'm projecting.