ericb
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by ericb on Oct 30, 2017 17:30:26 GMT -7
Hi guys - so I have a -3" wingspan. I want to figure out what the best exercises and areas of focus for me should be to best overcome this. I like bouldering primarily, so I'm especially interested in what I can do to make up the shortcoming (ha). Wasn't sure where to post this, but I figure skill development might be appropriate.
So far, I've been thinking: - Lock off laps - Footwork drills? - Lots of stretching for increasing mobility.
Any thoughts on other skills to practice, supplemental exercises, etc?
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 30, 2017 17:42:08 GMT -7
deadlifting helps you "climb taller"
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 31, 2017 8:18:52 GMT -7
I think lock-off ability is huge when making big reaches. Particularly the ability to lock off really low, like well below shoulder-level. When I see people failing on reaches its usually because they can't pull the hold down below their shoulder. Finger strength is a contributor with this too, since the higher you pull past a hold, the more you pull out on it, which effectively makes the hold worse (less positive). It's possible the pinch strength could come into play here as well.
Also, I heard Michael Jordan used to hang from a bar when he was a kid to make himself taller. I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat.
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 31, 2017 10:31:48 GMT -7
Mark we need one of those medieval stretching devices
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Post by Chris W on Oct 31, 2017 17:47:38 GMT -7
I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat. I just recently discovered my Ape has improved. It's massive, around +7. The reason it improved, however, is because apparently I've shrunk a little since I last measured my height for real, when I was in college. I used to say I was close to 5'10", but apparently I'm barely 5'9". One of my good climbing buddies, BTW, has a negative Ape, but it doesn't slow him down at all. He literally warms up on the climbs I'm projecting.
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Post by Elvis K on Nov 24, 2017 6:42:05 GMT -7
ericb,
Try doing really offset pullups and focus on getting your chin over the higher hand and hold it for a few seconds. Campus rungs are pretty helpful when doing this excercise.
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