Negative Ape Index Training Priorities

[ericb]

Hi guys - so I have a -3" wingspan. I want to figure out what the best exercises and areas of focus for me should be to best overcome this. I like bouldering primarily, so I'm especially interested in what I can do to make up the shortcoming (ha). Wasn't sure where to post this, but I figure skill development might be appropriate.

So far, I've been thinking:
- Lock off laps
- Footwork drills?
- Lots of stretching for increasing mobility.

Any thoughts on other skills to practice, supplemental exercises, etc?

[jonfrisby]

deadlifting helps you "climb taller"

[MarkAnderson]

I think lock-off ability is huge when making big reaches. Particularly the ability to lock off really low, like well below shoulder-level. When I see people failing on reaches its usually because they can't pull the hold down below their shoulder. Finger strength is a contributor with this too, since the higher you pull past a hold, the more you pull out on it, which effectively makes the hold worse (less positive). It's possible the pinch strength could come into play here as well.

Also, I heard Michael Jordan used to hang from a bar when he was a kid to make himself taller. I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat.

[jonfrisby]

Mark we need one of those medieval stretching devices

[Chris W]

Oct 31, 2017 8:18:52 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

 I wish I had tracked my Ape over time because I'm pretty sure it's improved. I would think all that hanging, over decades, especially with weights attached, would lengthen one's arms somewhat.

I just recently discovered my Ape has improved. It's massive, around +7. The reason it improved, however, is because apparently I've shrunk a little since I last measured my height for real, when I was in college. I used to say I was close to 5'10", but apparently I'm barely 5'9". 

One of my good climbing buddies, BTW, has a negative Ape, but it doesn't slow him down at all. He literally warms up on the climbs I'm projecting. 

[Elvis K]

ericb,

Try doing really offset pullups and focus on getting your chin over the higher hand and hold it for a few seconds. Campus rungs are pretty helpful when doing this excercise.