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Post by aikibujin on Sept 29, 2017 20:18:49 GMT -7
So after complaining about the lack of home training facility in Chris W thread, a Climbing Wall Angel flew down from the sky (or Evergreen, which is pretty close to the sky) and helped me build the frame for a home wall today! It's about 8 feet wide and 30 degrees overhung. It's a pretty simple wall, but compared to the wobbly hangboard I was training on before, it's going to be amazing. I still need the t-nuts, the plywood panels, and then try to slowly buy climbing holds to fill it. So it's a work in progress, but I'm very psyched for this new training tool! Thank you, Climbing Wall Angel. We (and by we, I mean the Climbing Wall Angel) even moved my hangboard from the wobbly frame to one side of the wall, so now I have a solid hangboard to hang from before the whole wall is up. 5.13s, here I come!  |
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Post by daustin on Sept 29, 2017 22:58:46 GMT -7
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Post by Chris W on Sept 30, 2017 3:27:16 GMT -7
Ha! That's about the same size as my steep wall. mine is 8 feet wide, 35 degrees, and about 10 feet from floor to top (around 12 feet of climbing space). It sounds silly, but I literally have nightmares in which I'm forced to leave my home, go back to school, and try to figure out how to train without my home wall. It's my main advantage over the young(er) studs and dirtbags. I can't just up and climb any time I wish, because of a young family and a full time job, but my full time job allows me to make money and live in a stable home where I can create my own training paradise.
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 23, 2017 17:43:55 GMT -7
The wall is done today! I even put two jugs on it to start my hour-long ARCing sessions. It's training time!  |
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Post by avaserfi on Oct 23, 2017 18:37:11 GMT -7
Climbing wall angel is pretty awesome. He did a number on my garage!
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 23, 2017 19:53:59 GMT -7
Climbing wall angel is pretty awesome. He did a number on my garage! Yeah, I've seen pictures of your wall on MP, that thing is better than a climbing gym! |
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Post by jetjackson on Oct 24, 2017 2:28:04 GMT -7
The wall is done today! I even put two jugs on it to start my hour-long ARCing sessions. It's training time! Nice jugs! |
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 17, 2017 23:43:39 GMT -7
Since everyone seems to have a name for their home wall (Lazy H, the Dojo, Forearm Farm), I decided that I should name my wall too, and it's going to be called the Rock Castle. I bit the bullet and ordered a bunch of holds from Kilter, and I've been slowly putting them on the Rock Castle when I get home after work. It turned out to be a fun activity for my son as well, he will come into the garage to hang out with me by bouncing around on my crashpads and tackle me when I'm trying to put the holds on the Castle. I'm too impatient to sit there and set routes (while getting attacked by my little boy), so I decided just to throw all the holds on the wall in a grid pattern. Today I was supposed to go climbing with Mark and work on my mega project, but unfortunately my son hit his head first thing in the morning and got a small gash. I had to take him to the urgent care center, which meant I had to bail on Mark at the last minute (sorry man!). It turned out to be a super nice day for climbing too, and then it snowed in the evening (which means the weekend will be seepy and wet). Missing the best day for climbing this weekend put me in a pretty bad mood all day, I blamed my wife a little for not watching our son more closely. But having a woody at home now means I can at least climb a little after I put the kids to bed, which is exactly what I did to get rid of some of that frustration. This was my first workout on the Rock Castle after putting all the holds up. I decided to do a bit of aerobic endurance work: 2 mins on, 2 mins off, for a total of 5 sets. But I cut out all the rests and sped up the video 8 times, otherwise it would be really boring to watch. photos.app.goo.gl/Ie30uTtF6iIojRUA3 |
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Post by jrblack on Nov 18, 2017 0:26:58 GMT -7
This was my first workout on the Rock Castle after putting all the holds up. I decided to do a bit of aerobic endurance work: 2 mins on, 2 mins off, for a total of 5 sets. But I cut out all the rests and sped up the video 8 times, otherwise it would be really boring to watch. photos.app.goo.gl/Ie30uTtF6iIojRUA3Whoa ... you had Adam Ondra in your garage today? Or was that you? Hard to tell...  |
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 18, 2017 9:02:33 GMT -7
But who is this mysterious Climbing Wall Angel?
Looks sweet!
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Post by Chris W on Nov 18, 2017 19:18:31 GMT -7
Kid number 4 is almost here. Stitches happen. Don't blame the wife. I've already stitched my son twice, and he's only 4.
My barn is just named... The Barn. I thought about calling it The Home Wall of Awesomeness, but it just didn't seem to stick.
I train with my kids running around in the barn all the time. If you need any advice or just need to vent, let me know. I've probably already been there.
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 22, 2017 7:09:22 GMT -7
Whoa ... you had Adam Ondra in your garage today? Or was that you? Hard to tell... You can tell that it was not Ondra because: 1. I'm much better looking. 2. He's much stronger. Ondra would be wearing a 20-kg weight vest when he's doing this... |
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 22, 2017 7:51:55 GMT -7
Kid number 4 is almost here. Stitches happen. Don't blame the wife. ... I train with my kids running around in the barn all the time. If you need any advice or just need to vent, let me know. I've probably already been there.
You're right, I shouldn't blame the wife. I just get really moody when I can't go outside to climb. But the weekend ended up better than I expected. First, my son was back to his normal self by Saturday, screaming and bouncing all over the house. And even though it snowed 4 inches at my house on Friday night, it turned out it was just local to where I live. When I checked the webcam on Saturday, Clear Creek didn't get a single flake of snow. My wife, knowing I would be grumpy all week if I don't get to climb on the weekend, told me, "you should go climbing on Sunday! Go!"
Mark already had plans on Sunday, luckily at the last minute I was able to drag another climber out to Highlander (a cliff above where my mega project Sonic Youth is located), with the agreement that we will just drop by SY at the end of the day so I can put in a session on it.
Spoiler Alert: I’ll be talking about beta on Sonic Youth, so if you don’t want to know, don’t read the following, and definitely don't look at the video.
SY can be divided into three sections. The first section fires straight into a 16-move overhanging boulder problem from a ledge. The difficulty is probably around V5/V6. The moves are pretty powerful, the handholds are mostly positive if a bit reachy. So this section of the route suits my style well. I figured out all the moves in this section on my first day, so I’ve been aiding through this section on my subsequent days to conserve energy for working the top crux. Sunday was the first time I tried linking the moves on the first section, and I feel like I was already close in linking the entire boulder problem.
For this project I’m pulling out all the stops, including shooting video for beta analysis. I even got some bright green pants so I can look really, really good for the camera!
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 22, 2017 8:18:08 GMT -7
Whoa ... you had Adam Ondra in your garage today? Or was that you? Hard to tell... You can tell that it was not Ondra because: 1. I'm much better looking. 2. He's much stronger. Ondra would be wearing a 20-kg weight vest when he's doing this... either that or not using feet |
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Post by jrblack on Nov 22, 2017 8:30:02 GMT -7
Spoiler Alert: I’ll be talking about beta on Sonic Youth, so if you don’t want to know, don’t read the following, and definitely don't look at the video.
SY can be divided into three sections. The first section fires straight into a 16-move overhanging boulder problem from a ledge. The difficulty is probably around V5/V6. The moves are pretty powerful, the handholds are mostly positive if a bit reachy. So this section of the route suits my style well. I figured out all the moves in this section on my first day, so I’ve been aiding through this section on my subsequent days to conserve energy for working the top crux. Sunday was the first time I tried linking the moves on the first section, and I feel like I was already close in linking the entire boulder problem.
You should start another thread and document the entire journey! Start with how you selected the project, your first days on it, your thoughts, the collected beta, any video you get, etc. Then we can all vicariously follow along as you (hopefully) make progress on this thing! I would be really psyched if you did this, but of course it's a bit of work.  John |
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