What grips are you all using these days?

[erick]

For the past 5 HB seasons I have been following the advanced routine using these grips on the RPTC

Fully open, Large Edge LVDR

Fully crimped, Crimp Box 

MR, Shallow 2F Pocket

Semi Crimp (as open as possible), Middle of SVDR

MRP, IMR pocket

Wide Pinch

I started using these grips specifically to train for Smith. This has worked well for me in the past and I want to continue using most of these grips as they seem to fit well with the crags I climb at most often (Vertical or gently overhanging, granite or similar rock). I started training the MRP specifically to improve my pinky strength since I often found it was not engaged. That is not a problem anymore and I am ready to swap out the MRP for something else. After a trip to Wild Iris I think its time to add in the Mono to my training.

If I was going to drop the MRP how would you restructure the order to include the mono?
Those of you who climb in the 13+ range what grips do you use? Especially if you are NOT climbing at really steep crags.
I have done the Crimp as a half crimp with no thumb and a full crimp with thumb, which do you prefer?

Thanks everyone

Eric

[tetrault]

Only can comment in the crimp. If you use you thumb when actually climbing through a crux, then it makes sense to me that you would train with the thumb.

[srossabi42]

i do the mono as my 4th grip of 5, it might work ok to sub the mono into the MRP spot without restructuring. you might also try open -> IM -> crimp -> mono -> semi crimp -> pinch
do you prefer using IM in 2 finger pockets at wild iris? i typically use MR, i'm wondering if relative finger lengths (or something) make IM or MR more comfortable

[jonfrisby]

I am often cycling two protocols, and will usually have MR in one of them and mono in the other. Training monos a ton makes me nervous, and I find enough crossover application from the MR

[erick]

Sept 19, 2017 8:41:25 GMT -7 srossabi42 said:

i
do you prefer using IM in 2 finger pockets at wild iris? i typically use MR, i'm wondering if relative finger lengths (or something) make IM or MR more comfortable

My mistake, I actually do use the MR instead of the IM. I also wonder if I am training the mono is I should switch the MR for the IM?

Eric

[aikibujin]

Here's the order I use:
Warm up
Open
Full crimp
Mono
Half crimp
MR pocket
Medium pinch

I put the mono right in the middle because I want to train it after I'm fully warmed up, but not too fatigued.

[srossabi42]

Sept 19, 2017 10:42:06 GMT -7 erick said:

Sept 19, 2017 8:41:25 GMT -7 srossabi42 said:

if I am training the mono is I should switch the MR for the IM?

Do you mono with R? If you don't want one finger involved in two pocket grips then IM seems like a good idea. If you mono with M i think doing whichever 2 finger combo you're more likely to use makes sense. I guess you could also do M and R individually, you'd instantly double your endurance on mono heavy climbs haha

[jetjackson]

I've switched this season to focusing more on edges, now that I'm not climbing limestone, so pockets are a lower priority.

Warm up
LVDER 1st bump (Open crimp)
Full Crimp - Forge crimp with thumb
Wide Pinch
IM Half pad
SVDER - 1st Bump - Half Crimp - I can open hand this, but I half crimp it to train that joint angle.
Sloper

[Lundy]

I'm not climbing in the 13+ range, certainly not after last year's finger injury, but I have always tried to train more generally, as opposed to for specific locations. As such, I tend to alternate edge and pocket grips:

Half crimp
MR
Full crimp
IM
Wide Pinch
RP

I only do one set on RP, as I'm not trying to get strong there, just injury-proof myself a bit. My injury (two full pulley tears (A2 and A4)) was in my L ring finger and I'm trying to make sure it doesn't happen again. Not sure if this will do it or not, but the gains on this grip have been unbelievable, so I'm hoping that translates into something...

[scojo]

Only half crimp right now