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Post by Jure on Sept 8, 2017 9:49:51 GMT -7
I have a problem with hangboarding. I am hangboarding for 3rd year in a row. I was doing max hangs from Eva Lopez for two years and I bought your book half a year ago and started your program in february. I climb 13 years, have done a bounch of 5.13ds and V9s. I follow advance routine. I allways had extremly strong fingers, but reapeters helped me a lot. I was finally able to send 5.13d that was a big problem for me and a bounch of 5.13bs with ease, I actually came close to send my first 5.14. So all good.
But due to strong fingers and fighting head I need to use a lot of weight. Up to 22kg(sorry I dont know how to put these numbers in your scale). So the problem is that my forearms dont fail but my elbows and shoulders do. Today I woke up and called in sick. I can barely walk. My back is killing me. How can I fix that?
I was thinking that I maybe need to stop hangnoarding and start to strenghten my other muscles that go along with hb? But I am not shure wich ones. Has anyone had same troubles?
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Post by brendann on Sept 8, 2017 9:55:06 GMT -7
To increase resistance without adding weight you can 1.) Reduce the size of the hold. 2.) Reduce the rest time
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Post by willblack on Sept 8, 2017 10:50:41 GMT -7
I agree with what brendann said, but I would also add that 22kg (about 50lbs) is heavy but not incredibly so. If you're finding that your elbows/shoulders/back are being affected by this weight it's probably a sign that you have some antagonist muscle deficits that might be negatively affecting your climbing. It might be worth it to choose smaller holds with lighter weight while also putting some effort into strengthening your shoulders, push muscles, and core.
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Post by erick on Sept 8, 2017 11:09:30 GMT -7
The thing I love about doing HB work is that it points out the weakness in the chain. Some times it may be fingers but other times it can be the other muscles in the arm/back/shoulder. I make a point to hold in as nearly perfect hanging form as possible. You have probably already seen this... blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/esther-smith-shoulder-maintenance-for-climbers.html...but I try to hold this form solidly and if my form breaks I reduce weight even if the fingers could have kept going. Also when hanging heavy (I add 60# or more on some grips) I find that its really important to engage the core by extending my legs forward just a little. This makes things quite a bit harder but my back thanks me. This my current issue with some grips, My fingers can do more weight but somewhere else in the chain my body is too weak to hold the weight in the strong/stable position I want to be in. I hope this helps, Good Luck and let us know what you find Eric |
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 8, 2017 11:50:37 GMT -7
For some reason 1 arms with a pulley stress my shoulders significantly less than equivalent added weight using this equation: (BW - assistance)*2
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 18, 2017 21:16:04 GMT -7
I'm starting to see this in my current cycle.
I'm adding 27.5kg or ~60 pounds on the LVDER on the first 'bump'. I'm nearing the point where my shoulder form is dropping off. Considering next cycle of going down to the next bump and dropping the weight back.
Been going to the physio too lately and she has been discussing some imbalances with me that I'm tryiing to fix. I'm starting to realise that in order to keep my scaps engaged and maintain good shoulder form, I have to have my chest pushed up, so to speak, to compensate for a lack of flexibility in my shoulder joint. Something I'm trying to improve.
Having said that, we've always had this debate on here. I use the engaged scaps form on pretty much every hold with the exception of the 2 finger pockets.
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Post by willblack on Sept 20, 2017 7:18:38 GMT -7
Jet,
I used that same hold as my large edge for a while, and when I switched I noticed that that hold is so large it kind of prevents a real open hand grip. If you're adding 60lbs you would probably benefit from moving to a one pad edge. Moving to the next bump (depending which finger is on the bump) might be enough but you may want to go even smaller
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 20, 2017 17:34:34 GMT -7
That's a valid point - my 'open hand' at the moment really has the MR in half crimp position. My index finger is a lot shorter than the other two.  |
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 21, 2017 10:29:15 GMT -7
This is an "open crimp" or "chisel" grip. Difference from a half crimp is the DIP flexion. If you want a true half crimp, I would suggest doing some wrist strengthening work which will allow you to turn your hands out more. I also have short index fingers and getting stronger wrists was really helpful for this.
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 21, 2017 16:36:08 GMT -7
I have also been training the half-crimp on the SVDER, with the index finger in the half crimp position - I'm training the above grip on purpose, rather than an inability to hold the half crimp. Kind of confused by what you mean about turning hands out more? As in pulling the MR outwards more to get them into a more open position?
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 22, 2017 10:44:26 GMT -7
I have also been training the half-crimp on the SVDER, with the index finger in the half crimp position - I'm training the above grip on purpose, rather than an inability to hold the half crimp. Kind of confused by what you mean about turning hands out more? As in pulling the MR outwards more to get them into a more open position? as in externally rotating your wrists so that your palms face directly at the board, rather than having the slightest inward rotation. This functionally makes my index finger "longer" |
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 22, 2017 19:34:14 GMT -7
I see what you mean. I might also be able to make that easier by widening the gap between the hangboard holds.
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 26, 2017 4:37:27 GMT -7
I have also been training the half-crimp on the SVDER, with the index finger in the half crimp position - I'm training the above grip on purpose, rather than an inability to hold the half crimp. Kind of confused by what you mean about turning hands out more? As in pulling the MR outwards more to get them into a more open position? as in externally rotating your wrists so that your palms face directly at the board, rather than having the slightest inward rotation. This functionally makes my index finger "longer" I tried what you said today, but if I turn my wrist to lengthen the MR and get them out of the half crimp position - and more open, my pinky drops off. Can you share a photo of what you mean? |
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