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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 8, 2017 8:36:51 GMT -7
I have been having trouble translating finger strength to small holds on real rock of late. I tried When I Was a Young Girl in Wild Iris and couldn't do much with the small crimps on the bottom boulder problem. On the other hand I can hang a small flash board crimp with like 70 pounds or the forge crimp with thumb catch with 40-50 pounds added. It seems like getting stronger on reasonable sized holds isn't translating super well to tiny stuff. When I climb slightly bigger holds on a 30-40 degree overhang, this isn't a problem and I am seeing a ton of improvement here. Anyone have experience with this? Should I just do 45 degree boulders for the rest of my life?  |
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Post by tetrault on Sept 11, 2017 4:39:59 GMT -7
Seems like huge numbers on the forge crimp. Have you tried using your feet when you are climbing?  |
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Post by erick on Sept 11, 2017 9:20:03 GMT -7
I have that problem at times. I have great finger strength and ability to move on low angle terrain but once things get steep I can hang for days but not move. For me its completely a technique and skill development thing. I find that when the angle is less steep I need to be able to cultivate calm to hold on and move, which is the opposite once things get steep. But stuff at Iris is just hard so chalk it up to a movement pattern to be learned (I have lots of those at the Wild Iris) and if you only climb 45 degree boulders the rest of your life its not that big of a problem. Probably cooler than some of the alternatives.
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 11, 2017 9:54:17 GMT -7
I think discomfort tolerance is another aspect of what's going on. My buddy who climbs 13+ did the move in question but had to sort of jump to a jug. I guess I need to learn that even sub-limit moves can be awkward and thrutchy and sorta downright painful.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 11, 2017 13:51:41 GMT -7
Ya, I was going to ask about pain tolerance. Often the "crux" of small hold climbing is dealing with pain. Tougher skin is huge (obviously), and I often find after hangboarding my skin is whole, but not especially tough, and I struggle on sharp climbing. After a couple weeks of plastic bouldering or roped rock bouldering I seem to be able to pull much harder on sharp holds, even if my skin appears worse off.
Furthermore, I think there is an element of learning and/or practice when it comes to pain tolerance. So there's value in pulling on sharp holds in training, to toughen up your skin, deaden your nerves, and/or learn to ignore it.
The holds on Cowgirl are quite sharp/painful for the grade, IMO. If you want to investigate next-level pain, check out White Buffalo!
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Post by aikibujin on Sept 19, 2017 7:54:54 GMT -7
On the other hand I can hang a small flash board crimp with like 70 pounds or the forge crimp with thumb catch with 40-50 pounds added. Holy smokes that's strong! I'm still at minus 30 lbs on the RPTC crimp. I find doing the banshee scream helps me with pain management. The more it hurts, the louder I scream. And since it often takes me half hour of gibbering and crying before I commit to a hard move, the screaming also has the added benefit of waking up my belayer just in time to catch me when I fall off. If Ondra is doing it, it can't be wrong! |
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Post by tetrault on Sept 19, 2017 8:08:50 GMT -7
"I find doing the banshee scream helps me with pain management. The more it hurts, the louder I scream. And since it often takes me half hour of gibbering and crying before I commit... the screaming also has the added benefit of waking up my..." TMI, man!  |
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Post by jonfrisby on Sept 19, 2017 8:34:19 GMT -7
On the other hand I can hang a small flash board crimp with like 70 pounds or the forge crimp with thumb catch with 40-50 pounds added. Holy smokes that's strong! I'm still at minus 30 lbs on the RPTC crimp. I find doing the banshee scream helps me with pain management. The more it hurts, the louder I scream. And since it often takes me half hour of gibbering and crying before I commit to a hard move, the screaming also has the added benefit of waking up my belayer just in time to catch me when I fall off. If Ondra is doing it, it can't be wrong! IMO the RPTC crimp is way shittier than the forge one |
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