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Post by astace on Jul 30, 2017 17:23:52 GMT -7
How long do you stay on a Performance Phase before taking a Rest Phase? Especially if having a sudden breakout season?
I joined some friends with their training starting in April. Based off the book.
Having plateaued for a long time at 13-, the performance phase that started a month ago has been a surprise. With a 13+, a few in the 12+ to 13- range, and three boulder problems near my limit. This has been an unexpected yet delightful experience.
My age of early 50s makes avoiding injury a high priority for me. My body feels okay at the moment. The desire is to keep going until progress stops. Is this wise, or is it time to stop and rest?
When does one stop the performance phase to rest, prior to training again? On a fixed schedule, when fatigue arises, or some other factors?
Thank you
Stacy
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 30, 2017 19:06:48 GMT -7
Stacy,
Would you mind giving us a few more dates to go off of? When did you start your training cycle, if you used phases, when did they start/end? When did your Performance Phase begin? If this started in April I would say it's definitely time for a break.
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Post by jetjackson on Jul 30, 2017 19:47:37 GMT -7
Following - leap from 5.13- to 5.13+ is awesome at any age! Congrats on the results.
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Post by astace on Jul 30, 2017 21:29:06 GMT -7
Mark,
I started at the beginning of April. We followed the plan on page 187 the book, with the following changes.
To maintain our regular social circles in the gym, we did not ARC much, but did more laps each turn.
During the HB phase, my fingers would feel sore from the hangboard routine. So on alternate weeks I only did the HB routine once and bouldered the other day.
Outdoor days started during PE phase in May, though I felt tired from the 4x4s during training.
Started the Performance Phase the last week of June, so a month now.
The schedule in the book has only a month of Performance followed by rest. I am tempted to stretch it a few more weeks. But maybe resting now is healthier and will give me another training cycle before autumn.
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Post by Chris W on Jul 31, 2017 5:17:47 GMT -7
I consider my PE phase and performance phases to be pretty similar, so a total of 6 weeks. I stick pretty darn close to the program and rarely stray, for many reasons, mostly life circumstances with family and work. I'm also 34, not in my 50's.
I've extended my performance phase twice, each for only a week. Once, it helped me send my project, the second time (this past spring) it was pretty obvious I wasn't close enough.
If the weather is getting hot where you are, and you're not injured, and you don't have a particular project you're gunning for, and you're psyched to climb some stuff in the fall, why not take a break?
Or, if you truly feel good and strong and you're not climbing anything tweaky, you could keep going, but I personally wouldn't. The times I've stopped to regroup because of fear of injury, I could tell things needed a rest. My shoulder felt a little less stable, my elbow ached a bit, etc.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 31, 2017 8:57:14 GMT -7
If you've been climbing outside since May, I would definitely recommend a break. I typical do about 6-weeks outside, but like Chris, work and family are significant considerations for me.
Philosophically speaking, I think when people have a breakout season, they fear they won't have that success again, so they want to hold onto it as long as possible. I know I do that. But, if you stick with the program it's likely that your next season will be even better. Ideally your recent success can motivate you to train even better the next time around.
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Post by astace on Jul 31, 2017 18:05:23 GMT -7
Thank you for sharing your experience and thoughts, Chris and Mark. I will start switching over to working on overdue house projects as active rest for two weeks, and then begin a new training cycle for the next season.
(I will also edit my initial post with better clarity for future reference)
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Post by Chris W on Aug 1, 2017 4:42:47 GMT -7
Ha! I do the same thing for my "rest". If I didn't climb, my house would probably look pretty nice!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 1, 2017 20:11:08 GMT -7
If I didn't climb, my house would probably look pretty nice! I worry that one of these days my wife will realize that. My house would look amazing if I put all my route development energy into honey-dos. |
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