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Post by wellhung on Jul 17, 2017 11:23:38 GMT -7
After about 7 years of doing a repeaters phase, my shoulders appear to have had enough, irrespective of how tense/relaxed I hang. I am trying to find a work-around because I really responded well to these workouts. I have tried no-hangs (i.e. lifting a hangboard with weights attached kind of like a deadlift) but I really find this suboptimal for hard repeater sets. I've thought about rotating the 2 pieces of the RPTC board opposite directions on the vertical axis so that I can hang with my hands more facing each other. Anybody try this before or have any ideas for how to change hanging position?
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Post by jonfrisby on Jul 17, 2017 14:03:14 GMT -7
Biggest problem with that is you end up compressing a lot, which can throw off your numbers and make improvement unpredictable. Also your elbows would hate you.
Why don't you spend the next several months on ladders, or max hangs or 7/53 or whatever? You've probably adapted really well to repeaters, and maybe you would jump up with a new stimulation |
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Post by Chris W on Jul 18, 2017 3:26:11 GMT -7
Have you tried looking up information on Esther Smith and Hang Right? Esther is a physical therapist based in Salt Lake City and has made appearances with Black Diamond and Training Beta. I believe her videos on "hang right" and hangboard posture are free of charge. I spent 12 dollars on her website to purchase a video on shoulder issues which is a bit more general and it seems to be helping me. My guess is that I have an old labral tear, but it doesn't stop me or slow me down, just bugs me a little.
Regarding hangboard positions, I tried different positions but settled on keeping the slopers level. I do, however, adjust the width of each half depending on the grip. I found a sweet spot that allows maximal engagement of supporting shoulder muscles with minimal joint stress and marked the spots on my french cleat to easily replicate them during my HB sessions.
My assumption with rotating around the vertical axis would be that it would allow the humeral head to sit more naturally within the glenoid fossa and labrum. This would be more comfortable to your shoulders, and this is the position I use when doing shoulder presses, bench press (all with dumbbells), etc. If you're hanging "properly" you can replicate this humeral head position on a flat board, though it is harder and takes (for me) a conscious effort. I suppose if I had to change this, I'd first hang on rings or metolius rock rings to find a good or optimal angle, then build a trapezoid hangboard mount for each half of my RPTC. Of course, if I got to that point, I'd probably just check a second opinion about my shoulder health with a professional. Surgery might be painful, but a simple consult will only hurt your wallet.
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Post by bradsta on Jul 18, 2017 6:51:00 GMT -7
I'm not sure what's going on with your shoulders, but I was having trouble with one of my shoulders collapsing forward during repeaters. This was always the first thing to give out on the board, whether on slopers, crimps, or pockets. The shoulder would slip forward and i would end up letting go because my form was so bad and I didn't want to injure the shoulder further. This would happen when I grew fatigued on routes as well, and it had been plaguing me for nearly a year.
I started adding overhead press (using a bar) 2-3 times per week (shrugging at the top of the press to fully engage) and that has really managed to strengthen and stabilize the shoulder. The method was warmups, then 3 sets of 5 reps with 4 minutes rest. Started at 75lbs working weight and ramped up very gradually to 100lbs over the course of 6 months. This nearly completely cleared up the shoulder issue. I rarely feel anything in the shoulder now, only when i'm loading it hard during bouldering sessions - never on the hangboard. Anyway, just another datapoint for you - hope it's useful.
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kader
New Member
Posts: 37 
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Post by kader on Jul 20, 2017 0:12:49 GMT -7
Why not doing one arm hangs instead? The positioning of the board would be irrelevant
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Post by wellhung on Jul 20, 2017 13:40:42 GMT -7
Thanks all for the suggestions. I'm surprised to be alone in having this issue. I have read a lot about rehabbing shoulder issues and proper hangboard form, and I am hoping that I can slowly rehab this. I have started overhead pressing.
As silly as it sounds to try 1-arm hangs when your shoulders feel sketchy doing repeaters, I have tried 1-arm hangs as a solution to this problem, but alas I am not enough of a stud to do repeater sets with 1-arm and a manageable pile of weight on the pulley.
I have also messed around with max hangs recently, but I don't seem to achieve any finger strength improvement training this way.
I will have to change my username to overhung.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 24, 2017 14:51:48 GMT -7
How much weight are you adding on the various grips you train? It may be possible to diminish the stress on your shoulders in the short-term by simply using smaller holds with less resistance. Another variable to play with is intensity vs. duration--some people do better with more reps/sets at lower resistance (such as repeaters), others prefer shorter sessions with more resistance (such as Max Hangs).
Still, in the long run the best bet is probably to improve your shoulder strength as others have suggested. But you may find you can work both approaches at the same time.
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Post by wellhung on Aug 11, 2017 11:11:12 GMT -7
Other than my warmup set on the bigger slot, where I use up to 80 lbs, most of my other grips are around bodyweight or just slightly over by the end of the HYP cycle.
I think there is a weird effect here though. I don't find that the shoulder issues correlate with weight held. 1/2 crimp always seem sketchier than open or full crimp, and on the occasions where I have trained 1 pad monos, which are well below bodyweight, they feel very sketchy on the shoulders.
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Post by Mark Anderson on Aug 12, 2017 10:16:33 GMT -7
Couple thoughts:
1. Downsize your warmup grip . +80 is way too much when your other sets are ~body weight.
2. Do you have an adjustable-width hang board mount? If the lighter grips are giving you trouble, it's almost certainly a form issue. Try different grip spacing if you can.
3. Don't try so hard on the grips that hurt your shoulders. For me, when I start really struggling to complete sets my form goes to hell. Focus on maintaining good posture. This is mentally challenging because you won't hit the same weights you're used to, but the stress on your fingers will be the same, and that's what matters.
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