dsm
New Member
Posts: 48
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Post by dsm on Jul 1, 2017 21:16:04 GMT -7
Hey everyone, so I was working a sloper intensive boulder problem and dynoed to a sloper hold just out of reach. I couldn't quite latch the sloper fully and when I came down I noticed pain in my wrist. I went home, have been icing it, and it feels okay now but I am having pain when I bend my hand downward so I'm limiting movement with a splint glove thing for a little.
This actually happened to me before with the other hand about two years ago on the same type of move (and it took me out of climbing for a month back then). Since then I've done a bit to try and develop wrist flexibility and strength. I stretch my wrists almost everyday and do flexbar stuff or wrist curls (though I've admittedly been less diligent about this latter lately).
Anyone have advice about rehabbing this and maybe exercises to prevent this?
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Post by jetjackson on Jul 7, 2017 23:51:59 GMT -7
Sounds like it could be Triangular fibrocartilage injury, google that and see if it lines up with your symptoms.
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dsm
New Member
Posts: 48
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Post by dsm on Jul 8, 2017 20:30:58 GMT -7
Hey, thanks. I looked it up and my symptoms (fortunately) don't line up with that. No pinky pain or side to side pain. So I'm pretty sure it was a sprain and my ligament got overstretched when I caught the sloper but couldn't hold it. Luckily, I think it was a minor sprain as it's been a week and a day and I'd say it's at about 90% full functionality.
I've kept it in a splint all week since it happened and have been doing stretching and flexbar curls a couple times a day for rehab. I'm just going to be as diligent as I can with doing 3x/week wrist curls & reverse wrist curls from here on out. A friend also recommended one of those gyroscope hand exercise things, so I might try that.
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Post by jetjackson on Jul 9, 2017 0:42:09 GMT -7
Those gyroscope things I wouldn't recommend for rehab - rehab exercises should be very easy to control and do with good form with the ability to start with very low resistance - which you can do with wrist curls. You can't really do that with the gyro, as you have a pretty high level of tension just to get the thing moving.
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