Training Cycle Length - 12 weeks after Strength

[andreas]

Hi,

i am just finishing my strength cycle this week and will move on to power next week.

My target is to peak mid September until end of October. 

The firs target route is a long line with several boulder problems, ok rests and a pump rp crux at the end.

The second target will be Rude Boys in Smith Rock, not so different i guess.

I am concerned that if i keep following my cycle i might peak to early. My plan was to keep climing on weekends and train during the week and if the weather does not allow outdoor climbing. So far i trained a lot - so i am ahead of schedule.

My plan is to do 4/5 weeks power followed by 4 weeks PE and 2/3 weeks endurance and Power maintenance. What would you do to delay the peak until time is ready? 

Thank you for your input.
Andreas

[Chris W]

I do a "transitional" summer season. After my spring season, I do a strength phase, short power phase, then start my fall phase in mid July. My fall season is scheduled to start July 16th and end October 28th. Right now, I'm training power until around July 4th, will "rest" by doing non-climbing training for fun, then start training for the fall.

[MarkAnderson]

I agree that you will have difficulty maintaining your form from now until late-October. If I were you I'd plan to do a complete training cycle beginning around early August. In the meantime I'd do whatever makes the most sense given my Fall plans.  Given that you just finished HBing, I'd probably try to climb as much as possible between now and August, with LBing or PE training on days I can't get outside.

[jcm]

All I can say is that I know I wouldn't want to be trying Rude Boys that many months out from my last hangboard sessions.

[andreas]

So you would recommend doing something like:

4th July, 1st and 2nd August:       Strength 6/8 HB   - would you do another full cycle with 10?
3rd / 4th August:                        Power Campusing - 3campus / 3 LB
September:                                PE and training on the project

I like the idea of taking a break for 3 weeks. I am just wondering of another HB cycle so close the one just finished would make sense?

Thanks for the feedback.



joe: are the crimps that intense?!                 

[andreas]

Jun 22, 2017 9:10:49 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

I agree that you will have difficulty maintaining your form from now until late-October. If I were you I'd plan to do a complete training cycle beginning around early August. In the meantime I'd do whatever makes the most sense given my Fall plans.  Given that you just finished HBing, I'd probably try to climb as much as possible between now and August, with LBing or PE training on days I can't get outside.

Just as a brief update - i followed your advice and did some one campus / PE session and spent most time climbing outside.

I really surprised myself by sending my dream route i started working on last year. It is a steep, overhanging 35m route called Maxi Pista (13c) in Lions Head. It has a 10 move PE section followed by ha hard crimp crux at the bottom. The rest is very sequency boulder problems broken up by ok rests. It finished up with a overhanging endurance crack and one last pocket crux at the anchor.

I gave it a try without much hope because my endurance was just not there. Surprisingly after 4 days on the route and two PE sessions i was able to send it on Monday. A dream came true - i love your training regime!

Regards

[MarkAnderson]

Wow, that's awesome! I think that shows how important Strength and Power are. If you're really strong (relative to your goal), you don't need much endurance.

[andreas]

Jul 10, 2017 11:05:13 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Wow, that's awesome! I think that shows how important Strength and Power are. If you're really strong (relative to your goal), you don't need much endurance.

Obviously I was stronger than I thought. I learned that my baseline endurance and ability to rest are pretty good and that I can rely on huge improvements within two weeks and if I do 3-4 sessions with PE and resting.

I think ARC training might be one of the best ways to spend your excess time in a gym.

Back to hang boarding now - painfully weak - i lost 15lb in 4 weeks. Now i understand why you recommended doing the HB closer to the trip...