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Post by climber511 on Jun 13, 2017 9:48:21 GMT -7
Went to Mad Rive Gorge near Springfield Ohio Sunday. Went with a strong leader so I had the chance to try some hard (for me) routes. It's limestone (haven't climbed limestone in years) and still pretty dirty (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it  . Anyway we did an 11a - 11b/c - 11b - 11a - 10 something. Climbed the first one - fell a couple times on the second - hung and rested several times on the third - and got to the top of the last two but it was ugly - very ugly (all on TR). But that's an awesome day for me. The ARC has really helped my endurance and one move strength was OK (needs to be better of course). So thanks Mark! Numbers wise that's the best day I've had in many years. |
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Post by Chris W on Jun 13, 2017 19:45:16 GMT -7
Just imagine what you can do with good temperatures and a previous knowledge of the routes! Are you planning on going back to redpoint later?
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Post by climber511 on Jun 13, 2017 20:14:36 GMT -7
I don't think I'm quite there yet. I'd like to see them cleaned up a little more too - very dirty. I'll probably pick just one of the routes and brush it down - and start working it then.
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Post by Chris W on Jun 14, 2017 19:49:12 GMT -7
That sounds like a good way to familiarize yourself with the route and do a little public service work at the same time. FYI, I don't think I could have come close to climbing 5 routes close to my limit in a single day. I'm usually fried after 3 redpoint attempts or two hard routes.
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Post by climber511 on Jun 15, 2017 4:42:57 GMT -7
Thanks Chris. The routes are very short - maybe 40 - 45' I would guess with not too much overhang (kind of come and go)- that no doubt helped. But hard right from the start to the anchors. I struggled a lot - didn't feel like I could stay "in" to the rock - I just need to get on more routes near-at my limit I think. I've spent so many years doing more moderate long multi pitch trad that the idea of projecting is a new mental game as well. But it sure is fun! And my old man memory doesn't remember all the sequences like I wish it did either  . |
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Post by Chris W on Jun 15, 2017 18:42:33 GMT -7
One of my best climbing partners (Ted) is in his mid 60's. He's super strong, but he doesn't try to climb hard stuff much. I keep telling him he needs to retire and be my full time climbing partner, but he just laughs and says he can't afford it yet. I feel fairly certain that, if he wanted to, he could focus and train and project and set some new personal best climbs, but he doesn't seem too interested. I think he's happy climbing at his level, doing trad at the Gunks, climbing in the Adirondaks, ice climbing, and hanging out at the crag.
I keep hearing that you get weaker as you get older, or that strength gains come more slowly. That may be true, and I suppose I'll find out some day (I'm 34 now), but some of the older climbers just seem to get tougher. Their skin gets tan and leathery and they turn into one big tendon. I swear if Ted latches a hold, his fingers will not come off. His tendons must have mutated as he got older, or they just got stubborn and refuse to let go of what they have.
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Post by climber511 on Jun 15, 2017 20:50:25 GMT -7
I started climbing at age 34 - that was 34 years ago . I have lost in all areas but I don't think "strength" is really my biggest issue. I feel it's the combination of not climbing nearly as much as I used to - a loss of mobility/flexibility which makes positions harder - and a sort of general "stiffness" for lack of a better term - I'm not as fluid as I once was. I also don't have that feeling of being 10' tall and bulletproof that I had when young - that confidence was worth a lot when it came time to really push limits. I have spent a lot of time in the weight room over the years and even though I'm lean I still weigh 190# - which makes me a skinny weightlifter but a pretty big climber - doesn't seem to hurt at all in the mountains but for sport - I feel pretty big. I have an friend who says he did send the message to let go - but at his age it takes so long for his body to respond it just seems like he holds on for a long time. |
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Post by climber511 on Jun 27, 2017 13:30:28 GMT -7
7-6-25-1 New River Gorge All done on top rope for no good reason except the ropes were all put up while I was belaying people and I was too much in a hurry to get in as many routes as I could - goal was "mileage" this day. 5.9 - 5.10c - 5.8 - 5.11a - 10a - 5.8 - 5.8 - one unknown but maybe a 9. I think those were the ratings A very good day for me - my endurance is coming along some - still needs work though . |
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Post by Chris W on Jun 27, 2017 19:47:36 GMT -7
Awesome! I love the New. It's my go-to destination for climbing trips. It's about 6 hours away (9 with the kids) and pretty family friendly. The rock is gorgeous and the few climbers that I run into out there seem to be pretty nice. Where did you climb?
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Post by climber511 on Jun 27, 2017 20:21:01 GMT -7
I don't have a guide to this part of the New - Tatoo Wall maybe? My other post was from my not so good memory. My friend emailed me with the actual routes we did
Saidin 5.8,
Another Tigger in the Morgue 5.9,
Free Range Show Poodle 5.8(more like 5.9),
Scaphoid 5.9(+),
Lunate 10c(11a Matthias said),
Did you kiss? 11a(hard arete he led), and out at the far end where we finished:
Balefire 10b(1 move wonder start to 5.8 face)
Not satisfied yet but progress.
Way of the Cougared 10a(more like 10c) or a one move wonder 12a straight up. I did not do the 12a move.
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Post by Chris W on Jun 28, 2017 4:45:12 GMT -7
The guide book by Wolverine Publishing is really nice. I'm a bit of a guide book nerd; I like to thumb through them and drool over the routes and dream of a tick list. There are some really awesome routes around those grades at Endless Wall. There was a long 5.9 at the Kaymore slabs that is probably one of my favorites ever at that grade. A 70 meter rope BARELY lets you lower to the ground, and it would definitely be a bad thing to forget to knot the ends of your rope. Had to set up a rap from a tree, route tops out on top of the cliff. There were also a couple of 5.10's with really great holds and great exposure a short walk to the climbers right of the Honeymooners ladders. Discombulated I think and something else, I'll have to look up the names.
Scaphoid and Lunate, btw, are bones in the wrist.
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Post by Lundy on Jun 28, 2017 13:28:11 GMT -7
Chris - I think you're talking about Legacy and Discombobulated. Both 11a. Legacy is one of the best rock climbs at the New -- absolutely amazing. You should also try Aesthetica (.11c) - I think it's even better...
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Post by climber511 on Jun 28, 2017 14:22:03 GMT -7
Chris - I think you're talking about Legacy and Discombobulated. Both 11a. Legacy is one of the best rock climbs at the New -- absolutely amazing. You should also try Aesthetica (.11c) - I think it's even better... Thanks - any chance you could list that area's climbs from left to right please. |
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Post by Chris W on Jun 28, 2017 19:41:43 GMT -7
Yup, it was Legacy. I just checked on Mountain Project and it has a listing of the climbs in order. Some of the photos make it look burly, but I didn't feel like it was. The holds are all really good, but a bit of endurance did help. My endurance was pretty good that trip. It was such a perfect day. It was nice and cool, a good breeze, bluebird skies with a few fluffy white clouds, great exposure, gorgeous clean rock. It was the kind of climb that reminds you why you like climbing. It also reminded me why I train; I was strong and fit enough that I could enjoy the climb without struggling too much. It was still a physical climb, but in a feel good way, not in a wrecked way. It would be a good one to redpoint.
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Post by stanleybaker on Jul 6, 2017 14:36:19 GMT -7
Saidin 5.8, Balefire 10b(1 move wonder start to 5.8 face) Unexpected WOT. |
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. Anyway we did an 11a - 11b/c - 11b - 11a - 10 something. Climbed the first one - fell a couple times on the second - hung and rested several times on the third - and got to the top of the last two but it was ugly - very ugly (all on TR). But that's an awesome day for me. The ARC has really helped my endurance and one move strength was OK (needs to be better of course). So thanks Mark! Numbers wise that's the best day I've had in many years.
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