Shoulders the limiting factor when hangboarding?

[Alex D]

So I began my strength phase a couple of weeks ago and I've noticed that my fingers are strong enough to hold a lot more weight than my shoulders are. Should I sacrifice good shoulder engagement in order to add more weight for my fingers, or should I keep working at weights that my shoulders can handle? Will I still gain finger strength if I'm waiting for my shoulders to catch up? The process of strengthening my shoulders seems to take a while and I don't think I can add extra weight every one or two sessions like is recommended in the book...

Thanks!

[srossabi42]

would it be possible to use grips that are challenging for your fingers at a resistance level that is not overwhelming for your shoulders? maybe smaller edges, 1 or 2 finger pockets, or more engaging pinches?

[jonfrisby]

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/4efshy/method_stacking_max_minimum_edge/

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/4ojsfx/no_hang_apparatus/

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/51hhfz/grippul_strengthtoweight_ratio_for_climbing/

This is only the beginning. There's a ton of threads on r/climbharder on the subject of non-overhead finger training.

You can also downsize the edge rather than add weight. You don't engage your shoulders much more on a 12mm +50lb hang than on a 18mm +50lb hang, in my experience. How much weight are you adding and what size edge?

[jcm]

Another vote to downsize the edge and use lower weights, so that fingers are the limiting factor instead of shoulders.

[RobF]

I often add in some full range overhead squats using a piece of strongish theraband between my hands as part of my hangboard warmup. Awakens the shoulders / core.

Will also add a short loop of theraband around my knees when hangboarding / doing pullup. Pulling outwards / slightly externally rotating my feet helps fire up the glutes which stabilises the pelvis. This in turn provides a solid platform for the lats to work. Get maybes 3-5 extra reps with this per set.