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Post by knossos on May 17, 2017 10:56:44 GMT -7
Hi, I'm a new member and been looking at the RCTM for about a year now. I have a question about ARCing in a new phase. As a bit of background, I'm pushing 60 and had a 30 year layoff from climbing. I've been getting back into it for the past 18 months. I'm based in the U.K. and had my first climbing trip in 30 years to Kalymnos, sport climbing, last May and was onsighting mainly 6a and some 6a+ (5.10a-b). I loosely followed the RCTM protocol and went back in October and onsighted mainly 6b and some 6b+ (5.10c-d). I followed it loosely again over the winter and just got back from a trip a few days ago onsighting mainly 6c to 6c+ (5.11a-c). I'm pretty pleased with the progress although suffering a bit with arthritis in my hands so have not been able to complete the hangboarding sessions as yet.
Im taking a week or so off and planning to go back again in October so have about 18 weeks so time for another good cycle. My main question is - seeing as most of this past 3 weeks has been onsighting, does this count much towards my ARCing in the next phase? I'm pretty wiped out after 14 days of climbing over 3 weeks averaging 4 routes a day. It sort of seems a backward step having a week off and then spending 4 weeks on low intensity volume - intuitively it feels like I will lose many of the gains made so far, and of course I'm keen to start doing a few routes in our short Uk summer.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 18, 2017 20:18:28 GMT -7
I think it would be fine, especially for an experienced climber, to "count" the last three weeks as part of your Base Fitness phase. Perhaps do another week of ARCing, then move to the next phase. If you're concerned about losing the gains you've made, you can just continue right on training. The downside of that is that it may increase the risk of injury slightly, and it may undermine your motivation eventually. That varies a lot depending on the climber. I find periodic breaks are essential to keep my motivation high.
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