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Post by hmarcroft on Apr 16, 2017 1:22:01 GMT -7
I thought some of you would be interested in my results from my Strength Phase that just ended where I warmed up on my MoonBoard then did Max Hangs. I extended my Strength phase by a week(Following the Bouldering program) so I had a total of 12 sessions. I focused on the RCTC 8mm Crimp(Half crimped), The shallow side of the Forge VDER, and the RCTC fat pinch in that order. Overall I saw drastic and steady improvement over the 12 sessions on each grip. The most exciting of which is being able to hang the RCTC crimp consistently for 10 seconds without taking off weight. I suck at crimp strength so that was a big deal to me, and I've also noticed that the Original hold set(Yellow holds) on the MoonBoard have become substantially more comfortable to warm up on too. Here is the start and end negative or added weight for each hold respectively. RCTC 8mm Crimp- Start: -17.5LBS. End: N/a  Forge Vder(Shallow end)- Start: +5LBS. End: 35LBS.
RCTM Fat Pinch- Start: -5LBS. End: +5LBS. |
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Post by tedwelser on Apr 16, 2017 21:10:21 GMT -7
Nice work! Those yellow holds are not warm up material for me. 😅
How does the forge crimp compare to the rptc crimp? I just use the forge because the rpc feels a bit hard to control / predict. I just finished my hb season of repeaters (intermediate workout) and was psyched to feel some progress. I finished at -10 6x on the forge crimp which is big progress for me since i am not big on crimps (+20 pounds since fall pr). Is this your first max hang season with these grips?
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Post by hmarcroft on Apr 16, 2017 23:52:19 GMT -7
Nice work! Those yellow holds are not warm up material for me. 😅 How does the forge crimp compare to the rptc crimp? I just use the forge because the rpc feels a bit hard to control / predict. I just finished my hb season of repeaters (intermediate workout) and was psyched to feel some progress. I finished at -10 6x on the forge crimp which is big progress for me since i am not big on crimps (+20 pounds since fall pr). Is this your first max hang season with these grips? Thanks Ted Nice to hear from you, it's been a while. Anyway, the main differences(Besides the Forge's thumb support) are the depth and the texture. The RCTC Crimp is 8mm with a slightly smooth texture. While the Forge is 6mm with a much more agressive texture(in my opinion). So while the Forge crimp is smaller I feel like they equal out pretty well in difficulty(Assuming a half crimp grip) when texture is involved too. Thats some good progress in less than a year! I'm thinking about trying out a hybrid Repeaters followed by MaxHangs(3 weeks of each reespectively) strength phase next cycle to see how I fair with repeaters on the crimps and to stimulate some hypertrophy(I hope). Oh and yes this was my first cycle incorporating MaxHangs, and the results so far are incredible which makes me super psyched to jump into the Power phase to go ham on the Yellow holds and my new collapsible campus board. Talking about the MoonBoard, have you been incorporating it into your training lately? If so we should start sharing quality problems again |
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Post by climbnkev on Apr 17, 2017 11:09:52 GMT -7
Hi,
During your strength phase were you doing additional climbing days or just 2 days/week moon/HB sessions.?Curious about your warm-up on the moonboard(I like some V2's to get my rusty engine started personally). Do you have extra holds or any specific warm-up routine on it?
I just finally ordered my Moon holds last week so hope to be joining in the problem sharing discussions soon.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by hmarcroft on Apr 17, 2017 13:20:56 GMT -7
During my strength phase I would HB/climb every 3 days so I had 3 sessions the first and fourth weeks, and 2 sessions the second and third weeks. My warm up was just some light dynamic stretches(mostly for shoulders, elbows, and hips) then I would hop straight on the board. As of right now I only have the 3 sets of Moon holds on it, but after having it for almost 3 years I've gotten fairly used to warming up on it. For the warm up I would generally do a usual WBL(warm up boulder ladder) thing. Completing a few problems from each grade level going up to the V7/8's(focusing primarily on the yellow holds) depending on the day. Good to hear that you ordered the holds They'll probably feel difficult for the first few weeks but you'll get used to 'em. I also found that warming up on a hangboards bigger holds before hopping on helps out too in the beginning. |
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jcun
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Post by jcun on Apr 21, 2017 13:25:51 GMT -7
I thought some of you would be interested in my results from my Strength Phase that just ended where I warmed up on my MoonBoard then did Max Hangs. I extended my Strength phase by a week(Following the Bouldering program) so I had a total of 12 sessions. I focused on the RCTC 8mm Crimp(Half crimped), The shallow side of the Forge VDER, and the RCTC fat pinch in that order. Overall I saw drastic and steady improvement over the 12 sessions on each grip. The most exciting of which is being able to hang the RCTC crimp consistently for 10 seconds without taking off weight. I suck at crimp strength so that was a big deal to me, and I've also noticed that the Original hold set(Yellow holds) on the MoonBoard have become substantially more comfortable to warm up on too. Here is the start and end negative or added weight for each hold respectively. RCTC 8mm Crimp- Start: -17.5LBS. End: N/a Forge Vder(Shallow end)- Start: +5LBS. End: 35LBS.
RCTM Fat Pinch- Start: -5LBS. End: +5LBS. Awesome! 8mm crimp being the microcrimp correct? You're able to hold that for 10 sec? That's an awesome achievement! I'm on my 3rd cycle and my current max hang best is -25 lbs but I do train with my hangboard at an overhang on the blank slate. I want to see if I can manage no weight taken off on a vert hangboard. |
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Post by jonfrisby on Apr 21, 2017 13:45:35 GMT -7
I thought some of you would be interested in my results from my Strength Phase that just ended where I warmed up on my MoonBoard then did Max Hangs. I extended my Strength phase by a week(Following the Bouldering program) so I had a total of 12 sessions. I focused on the RCTC 8mm Crimp(Half crimped), The shallow side of the Forge VDER, and the RCTC fat pinch in that order. Overall I saw drastic and steady improvement over the 12 sessions on each grip. The most exciting of which is being able to hang the RCTC crimp consistently for 10 seconds without taking off weight. I suck at crimp strength so that was a big deal to me, and I've also noticed that the Original hold set(Yellow holds) on the MoonBoard have become substantially more comfortable to warm up on too. Here is the start and end negative or added weight for each hold respectively. RCTC 8mm Crimp- Start: -17.5LBS. End: N/a Forge Vder(Shallow end)- Start: +5LBS. End: 35LBS.
RCTM Fat Pinch- Start: -5LBS. End: +5LBS. Awesome! 8mm crimp being the microcrimp correct? You're able to hold that for 10 sec? That's an awesome achievement! I'm on my 3rd cycle and my current max hang best is -25 lbs but I do train with my hangboard at an overhang on the blank slate. I want to see if I can manage no weight taken off on a vert hangboard. Are you full or half crimping on the 8? I can't imagine trying to half crimp a sloping 8mm |
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jcun
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Post by jcun on Apr 21, 2017 13:58:18 GMT -7
Awesome! 8mm crimp being the microcrimp correct? You're able to hold that for 10 sec? That's an awesome achievement! I'm on my 3rd cycle and my current max hang best is -25 lbs but I do train with my hangboard at an overhang on the blank slate. I want to see if I can manage no weight taken off on a vert hangboard. Are you full or half crimping on the 8? I can't imagine trying to half crimp a sloping 8mm half crimping, after each hang I see an indentation of the edge in each of my fingers, very painful. Doesn't break through the skin to the point I bleed though which is good. Oh yeah when I started training i was taking off -60 lbs. |
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Post by hmarcroft on Apr 24, 2017 15:34:01 GMT -7
Are you full or half crimping on the 8? I can't imagine trying to half crimp a sloping 8mm half crimping, after each hang I see an indentation of the edge in each of my fingers, very painful. Doesn't break through the skin to the point I bleed though which is good. Oh yeah when I started training i was taking off -60 lbs. That's good progress By the way how much is your hang board overhanging? |
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jcun
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Post by jcun on Apr 24, 2017 15:38:46 GMT -7
half crimping, after each hang I see an indentation of the edge in each of my fingers, very painful. Doesn't break through the skin to the point I bleed though which is good. Oh yeah when I started training i was taking off -60 lbs. That's good progress By the way how much is your hang board overhanging? Thanks! Not much really I took a picture over the weekend and posted it in my thread asking if other's train hangboard overhanging as well.  |
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Post by hmarcroft on May 19, 2017 18:25:42 GMT -7
That's good progress By the way how much is your hang board overhanging? Thanks! Not much really I took a picture over the weekend and posted it in my thread asking if other's train hangboard overhanging as well. That looks intense! Since it's been a little while have you come closer to a no weight hang yet on the crimp? I also wanted to follow up with you guys on how my experience in the power phase has been after doing max hangs. All that I have to say is that I have never felt stronger(In the finger department). I've been consistently crushing my old Moonboard nemesis problems(V7-V8's mostly)and have been pushing into the V9 range(on the moonboard) which I'm really excited about. I'm going to see how I do outside in Little Cottonwood Canyon this sunday. Due to LLC's "difficulty" I'm not expecting to much but I guess we will see. |
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jcun
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Post by jcun on May 20, 2017 15:10:55 GMT -7
Thanks! Not much really I took a picture over the weekend and posted it in my thread asking if other's train hangboard overhanging as well. That looks intense! Since it's been a little while have you come closer to a no weight hang yet on the crimp? I also wanted to follow up with you guys on how my experience in the power phase has been after doing max hangs. All that I have to say is that I have never felt stronger(In the finger department). I've been consistently crushing my old Moonboard nemesis problems(V7-V8's mostly)and have been pushing into the V9 range(on the moonboard) which I'm really excited about. I'm going to see how I do outside in Little Cottonwood Canyon this sunday. Due to LLC's "difficulty" I'm not expecting to much but I guess we will see. I've since moved onto the power phase and with no angle on the hangboard I was able to do repeaters with only -10 lbs! So i'm pretty sure I could hang without weight now. My fingers definitely feel stronger than ever but I've not been able to send harder indoors so far in the power phase. The limiting factor here is my power endurance still hasn't recovered to the max of last cycle. Power is at least at the height of last cycle if not better according to the campus board but the hardest I've been able to send inside so far is a v5. I've been working limit on v7-10 1-2 moves. I've just finished week 3 of power. This next limit sesh I'm really going to focus on actually finishing the v5 on the 45 wall and a v6 on the same wall. It's been a discouraging climbing again during power phase for the fact that my power endurance isn't there nor has it come back to what it's height was last cycle. This could be because I'm overdoing it with my supplementals as I've incorporated a lot more weight training this cycle (bench, shoulders, triceps, squats) |
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