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Post by scrambled on Mar 26, 2017 22:08:28 GMT -7
Okay, so I am still confused *sigh* about what Skill acquisition and skill practice means ( I read the previous thread RE: this question and yet I am still not clear). Do I just pick a random skill I don't know very well....like heel hooks etc. and then in the skill acquisition phase I just keep practicing them? And in the Skill Practice I utilize it in my climbing? I don't get it really. I want to start out doing the Basic Seasonal Training Plan but I don't think I even understand the basic things.
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 27, 2017 10:34:02 GMT -7
My take on this:
Skill acquisition = learning a new technique, usually doesn’t take very long
Skill practice = getting better at that technique, takes a long time
If you already know how to do something (heel hook), then you've already done the skill acquisition. BUT just knowing how to do a heel hook, doesn't mean you know when to use it, or how to use it well. That's where skill practice comes in.
Now let's use another example. Let's say you don't know how to hand jam. You don't learn by jumping on a 5.11 handcrack on lead. Skill acquisition will come in the form of maybe toproping a 5.8 hand crack with plenty of footholds to figure out how to jam. Once you have the technique, skill practice may come in the form of running multiple laps on a hand crack to get more efficient at jamming, then gradually ramp up the difficulty by leading 5.9s, 5.10s, 5.11s...
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Post by scrambled on Mar 27, 2017 21:37:24 GMT -7
Thank you for your reply! So then skill acquisition/practice will be ON TOP of my ARC training indoors?
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Post by erick on Mar 27, 2017 22:02:36 GMT -7
I try to "acquire" skills during my warm up and then "practice" them during the ARC
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 28, 2017 4:42:43 GMT -7
Thank you for your reply! So then skill acquisition/practice will be ON TOP of my ARC training indoors? ARC sessions are certainly a great time for skill acquisition/practice, since you're most likely ARCing on terrain that is relatively easy for you. But skill practice doesn't have to stop there though. Whenever I'm making a conscious effort to improve some aspect of a technique, I consider that skill practice. |
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96 
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Post by mclay on Mar 28, 2017 23:50:41 GMT -7
Related to the secondary question, I've been bored out of my mind during my recent Base Endurance phase. I found an old RCTM blog by Mark about spicing up your ARC routine (just search the blog). The problem of acquisition/practice has been solved for me by his suggestion to pick a couple of specific techniques/movements and then try to do as many of that move as you can within a 5 minute period of ARC-ing. Beyond beating the boredom, this give you a measurable, focused way to make sure you aren't mailing it in on technique development.
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