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Post by Charlie S on Mar 8, 2017 20:19:55 GMT -7
Figured I'd throw this out there for any lurkers or anyone with future injuries. Backstory: I had an "accessory navicular" removed from my ankle 3 weeks ago. It was causing problems: my foot would hurt 4-5 days after ski touring, running, a long alpine hiking day, etc. And it was starting to get cranky in climbing shoes. Anyway, so that meant 4 weeks off the foot (I bartered with the doctor to get it down to 3 weeks if I behaved and wore the boot). My two-week ARC phase started last week. Well obviously at this point (and even more so last week), I couldn't consider climbing in a gym, let alone traversing with a useless foot. Plus that will mean being lop-sided on one leg. But I digress. This meant: Hangboard ARCing. Can you say "DULL!"? Watching Amazon's "The Grand Tour" has helped the pass the mind-numbing hour. I've gotten much more acquainted with all the holds on the RPTC (I can even hold a pinch grip at body weight for a couple seconds). I focused a lot on scapular movement and engaging the shoulders when pulling down. Pull-ups. Half-hearted front levers. Uneven pull-ups. I also incorporated a 20 minute (once per week) Arm Mill workout to get the heart rate up but also work arm muscle groups. The jury is out on whether this was effective, but I don't think it was necessarily detrimental. Another game changer was this little device: www.iwalk-free.com/hands-free-crutches/product-intro/The wife had me muddin'-and-tapin' drywall, sanding down door jambs, and all sorts of stuff just a couple days after surgery!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 8, 2017 20:46:33 GMT -7
Watching Amazon's "The Grand Tour" Is that any good? Definitely check out Patriot. That crutch thing is awesome!
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 8, 2017 22:12:12 GMT -7
That knee crutch thing is awesome.I saw someone on a knee scooter the other day at the airport.
Makes sense, I fell down a set of stairs while I was on crutches. Didn't do my knee recovery much good.
Also solves the issue of atrophied thigh.
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 8, 2017 22:19:30 GMT -7
Comrade Charlie! I'm also in the amazing hangboard ARCing club. I'm six weeks into my hangboard ARCing program now, finished 12 ARCing sessions so far. We should definitely compare notes.
How exactly are you ARCing on the hangboard, are you moving from hold to hold randomly, or do you follow a specific pattern (route?!)? How long do you spend on each hold, and how long are your sessions? Do you just put your feet on the ground, or do you use a kickboard? You mentioned scapular movement, pull-ups, and front levers, so I assume you're incorporating these in the ARCing session?
And what exactly is an Arm Mill workout?
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Post by Charlie S on Mar 9, 2017 14:33:08 GMT -7
MarkAnderson, I'm not really a car person, but I kind of dig the elderly/Brittish humor employed throughout the show. aikibujin, 12 hangboard ARCs! You are a tougher person than I! Proceedurally, I haven't zeroed in on an actual routine. Still aiming for a managable pump. Because of the leg, I didn't have a kickboard. Turns out if you stand on your toes, after about 10 minutes the pain is enough to keep more of your weight on your arms. Although I realize this is not really ideal. All those movements I mentioned are incorporated into the workout. "Active resting" and novel rest positions are a little tough to find on a hangboard. I guess "Arm Mill" is the wrong term. More like "Arm Bike": www.scifit.com/product/ifi-pro1/
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 9, 2017 18:58:36 GMT -7
aikibujin , 12 hangboard ARCs! You are a tougher person than I! ... Because of the leg, I didn't have a kickboard. Turns out if you stand on your toes, after about 10 minutes the pain is enough to keep more of your weight on your arms. Although I realize this is not really ideal. I don't know if "tough" is the right word, but yeah, if I have any natural gift, it's a high tolerance for boredom. Have you tried a chair or a step stool behind the hangboard to put your feet on? By changing how far you put the chair behind the hangboard, you can kind of simulate different angle overhangs. I tried putting two jibs to stand on, but I also found standing on my toes for an hour unbearably painful. So now I just stand on a 2x4 behind my hangboard that's part of my hangboard frame.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 9, 2017 19:27:06 GMT -7
if I have any natural gift, it's a high tolerance for boredom. ...which is essential to your professional career
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Post by Charlie S on Mar 9, 2017 19:51:45 GMT -7
Have you tried a chair or a step stool behind the hangboard to put your feet on? My hangboard is in the stairwell, so no, I don't really have that option. The next house we live in is going to have a bonafide training space...
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 10, 2017 8:04:50 GMT -7
...which is essential to your professional career That, and dealing with incompetent team members. But shhhh!! Don't tell my boss I think my job is boring. I love my job...
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Post by aikibujin on Jan 31, 2018 16:58:37 GMT -7
I also incorporated a 20 minute (once per week) Arm Mill workout to get the heart rate up but also work arm muscle groups. The jury is out on whether this was effective, but I don't think it was necessarily detrimental. Charlie, have you tried any more of this arm bike workout? Do you have any opinion on its effectiveness to work arm, back, and possibly forearm muscles? I'm about to start a new training cycle, but I can't ARC on my 30-degree Rock Castle (yet). I do 2-min on / 2-min off on my wall, but even that feels quite hard. So I'm trying to come up with creative ways to do low intensity "ARC-like" workouts. I bought a cheap fan bike on Amazon when it was on sale on Black Friday, and I got a set of "no hang" grips. If I put the fan bike on the lowest resistance setting, I can actually move the handles with my arms only and not have to paddle it at all. With "no hang" grips attached to the handle, I think I can do some low-intensity aerobic workout that will target my back, arms, and forearms. Won't get any technique practice out it, but maybe I can increase my aerobic capacity to the point where I can actually ARC on the Rock Castle.
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 31, 2018 19:20:21 GMT -7
No, I stopped that after I was able to weight both of my feet again.
I never really felt pumped with the machine I was working with. Although it was definitely better than nothing. I almost wonder if a lat pull-down machine with climbing holds would have been better?
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Post by RobF on Feb 1, 2018 11:16:18 GMT -7
Not arc'ing sorry but this is something I've been thinking about having watched this video. The use of pulleys over the edge of a table to set up a system of directly monitoring and improving max strength. Could have an interface with various hold types and work on crimp / undercut strength with a simple rotation of wrist. youtu.be/utbBT8JtSjkAny thoughts / ideas on the practicalities of this???
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Post by aikibujin on Feb 1, 2018 20:09:10 GMT -7
No, I stopped that after I was able to weight both of my feet again. I never really felt pumped with the machine I was working with. Although it was definitely better than nothing. I almost wonder if a lat pull-down machine with climbing holds would have been better? Lat pull-down machine is too much of an investment. the fan bike I got was $90, and initially it was for my wife to get some exercise in the dead of winter (of course she's not using it anymore). No worries, I'm definitely not opposed to experimenting on myself and see how it works.
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