Length of HB Hangs for Trad Climbers

[Tom]

Hi I am making the switch to the Intermediate HB protocol for my next strength phase.

I wonder if everyone goes from 10 On 5 Off in the Beginners to the 7 On 3 Off in the Intermediate, or if Trad-focused climbers stay with the longer hangs?

Thanks,

Tom

[tetrault]

As mentioned in the book, the line between trad and sport often tends to blur as the grades go up.

It would be interesting to compare analysis of TUT per hand per hold through cruxy sections of difficult trad routes vs sport. Anyone out there have any data?


Do you think you would be regularly hanging from a difficult hold for a full 10 seconds for any reason? If so, then maybe go for it.
Is it because of slower pace of intracate crack moves? Gear placement?


FWIW: My dream routes are almost exclusely traditional lines or "modern traditional" I suppose, and I had thought about performing a 10/5 protocol, but decided it was not going to be useful. In my experience on hard-for-me sends, I am either not placing gear through the crux, or am placing, swapping hands/shaking, then maybe adjusting the placement, swapping hands/shaking, then clipping, then maybe even stepping down to a rest... and if the crux involves intracate, slow-going finger locks, then I won't be sending But, in that case, technique improvement would likely be much more valuable than any Hangboard protocol adjustments.

[Charlie S]

I found it hard to progress max strength on the 10/5 protocol, despite being predominantly a trad climber. Switching to 7/3 allowed me to really push max strength and make progress. 10/5 tended to produce endurance-based failure as opposed to strength-based.

It'd be worth experimenting for a season and see what works best for you.