Post by kader on Feb 22, 2017 7:26:56 GMT -7
Hi,
i would like to write some feedback of my 1st season of the RCT and ask for advices for the next season which should start this saturday
i used the beastmaker 2000 and the intermediate hangboard workout
set 1 is 7 hangs of 7 secs on/3 secs off at weight x
set 2 is 6 hangs of 7 secs on/3 secs off at weight x+5kg (except for pinches: x+1.25 kg)
3 min between sets and 3 minutes between grips
1st grip: Large edge, IMRP open
2nd grip: Deep two finger pockets, MR open
3rd grip: Small edge, half crimp
4th grip: Large edge, IMR open
5th grip: Wide pinch dead lift
6th grip: 35 degree sloper, IMRP open
7th grip: Narrow pinch dead lift
I did 10 hangboard session (bouldering planning) with 2 rest days in between
if i managed the second sets of one grip, i would add 1.25 kg in the next session (0.5kg for pinches), otherwise I used the previous workout weight
The progression of the 2nd set was (failure to complete in orange):
What I did not like:
i would like to write some feedback of my 1st season of the RCT and ask for advices for the next season which should start this saturday
i used the beastmaker 2000 and the intermediate hangboard workout
set 1 is 7 hangs of 7 secs on/3 secs off at weight x
set 2 is 6 hangs of 7 secs on/3 secs off at weight x+5kg (except for pinches: x+1.25 kg)
3 min between sets and 3 minutes between grips
1st grip: Large edge, IMRP open
2nd grip: Deep two finger pockets, MR open
3rd grip: Small edge, half crimp
4th grip: Large edge, IMR open
5th grip: Wide pinch dead lift
6th grip: 35 degree sloper, IMRP open
7th grip: Narrow pinch dead lift
I did 10 hangboard session (bouldering planning) with 2 rest days in between
if i managed the second sets of one grip, i would add 1.25 kg in the next session (0.5kg for pinches), otherwise I used the previous workout weight
The progression of the 2nd set was (failure to complete in orange):
What I did not like:
- It took 1 hour to do the workout, excluding the warmup and the supplemental workout
- The 1st grip seemed to take too much of my energy and made the 2nd and 3rd very hard while the 4th always felt ok
- Slopers a bit condition dependent
- I was very tiring
What I did like:
The results:
I did 15 boulders at my max level in about 4 climbing session and upgraded my max grade. I was a bit conservative about challenging myself to higher grades because i wanted to dominate my previous max grade, which used to dominate me
I was a pleasure to kick people i considered much stronger than me's asses
It boosted my confidence and now i am back on track to realize my goals that i had given up on 2 years ago (after some failures and sever injuries)
The fact that the workout is systematic makes it easy to focus on sensations and feel one's current state of fatigue, or finger strength
On the moonboard, the results were dramatic (during the power phase). in Jan 2016 i could not do 6c but after only 1 month of training i did several 7b and got close on 7c in Jan 2017.
I am going to use the same scheme for next season, but i would like to tweak it a little bit
Any thoughts are welcome! (i will make a similar post about the power phase)
- Stronger fingers:)
- Working out at home makes the whole thing more enjoyable (music, heater etc)
- The recording of the numbers made me try really hard. Many times i could not believe I made it and yet beat my score during the next workout.
- It was very tiring
The results:
I did 15 boulders at my max level in about 4 climbing session and upgraded my max grade. I was a bit conservative about challenging myself to higher grades because i wanted to dominate my previous max grade, which used to dominate me
I was a pleasure to kick people i considered much stronger than me's asses
It boosted my confidence and now i am back on track to realize my goals that i had given up on 2 years ago (after some failures and sever injuries)
The fact that the workout is systematic makes it easy to focus on sensations and feel one's current state of fatigue, or finger strength
On the moonboard, the results were dramatic (during the power phase). in Jan 2016 i could not do 6c but after only 1 month of training i did several 7b and got close on 7c in Jan 2017.
I am going to use the same scheme for next season, but i would like to tweak it a little bit
- I am worried of overloading during grip 2. Should I reduce the pocket size and go lighter?
- Grip 1 was supposed to be the warm-ip but took to much energy. I am thinking of using alexandra 's warmup routine and give up on this one
- I am thinking of adding MRP open, or RP open, any thought?
- I will use the grippul pinches instead of my DIY pinches (if they get delivered in time)
- I am thinking of using my previous 6th/7th hangboard workout as the start of the next season, is that realistic?