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Post by cirquebound on Feb 14, 2017 6:54:05 GMT -7
Hey all,
I just finished a moderate hangboard cycle, and was feeling really strong and stoked to get into campus training. BUT then my PIP joints in both middle fingers started to hurt a whole lot when open and half crimping. I pay careful attention to any tweaks when climbing, and I cannot reflect on any event that caused the pain. I think it could be too high intensity with limit bouldering?
Any ideas what it could be? and even better how to make it go away?!
Many many thanks!
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Post by climbnkev on Feb 14, 2017 19:51:19 GMT -7
Nasty little crimplings, how you hurts the PIP's. Gollumn open hands to help with the PIP's. Golumn....Golumn.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 15, 2017 13:17:47 GMT -7
Nasty little crimplings, how your hurts the PIP's. Gollumn open hands to help with the PIP's. Golumn....Golumn. You kill me, Autocorrect! 
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Post by climbnkev on Feb 15, 2017 21:49:13 GMT -7
Sorry for the thread derail. I usually find my PIP joints get ticked from a) not warming up enough, or b) too much crimping. Switching to 3 finger drag or open grip helps sometimes as does some tape. Usually decreasing volume for a week or two clears things up.
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83 
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Post by erk on Feb 16, 2017 0:30:36 GMT -7
Can you give a little more history?
Did you have 1 bouldering workout that was fine then the next wasn't?
Did the pain start at the beginning of the workout or in the middle?
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Post by cirquebound on Feb 16, 2017 10:03:13 GMT -7
I think I was pretty warmed up (climbing outside in 20degrees - do you ever actually "warm up").
Maybe some history will help?
I am on the heavier side of things 200lbs, and was HB'ing for 4wks feeling strong, and started with a bouldering session going up to v10. Then went out two days later to check out a new boulder that was recently FA'd and put some burns into it (compression crimping - coming in around v10).
The next day it was achy, but I assumed it was from the crimping. So I took it easy. Then it felt worse at after the next bouldering session.
So I started a RICE protocol - and once ROM wasnt bothering me. I started into rubber band ROM three times a day while at work.
*Maybe my mistake was that if it doesnt hurt keep climbing (aka compression, slopers, maybe pinches). When I was bouldering I had a instant on a narrow pinch where I dropped because of a sharp pain near my PIP.
So back to RICE, and ROM and onto rubber-banded ROM.
Right now I am able to do that without pain. The pain only occurs when the PIP is flexed past 90degrees (under tension). Making me think its a swelling issue??? I was also testing things a couple days back with hangboarding. I reduced weight and the half crimp is a dull pain at first then goes away and I can do most other positions without pain. But still hurts full crimping.
Any advice would be awesome!
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