Post by stephrascasse on Feb 8, 2017 9:42:48 GMT -7
Hey guys,
I have been quite busy for a while now due to my studies and I have discovered next to the job a creepy bouldering wall around 35-45° degree overhang. For information, i rock climb something around 5.13c/d so when limit bouldering even with this angle, it is not a jug fest (even contains most of the time nasty crimps!).
I learnt to like it a lot and manage to make some friends to come and climb with me. I have been surprised to see that most of my friends are way better than me even if on rock climbing it is most of the time the opposite.
So I try to understand what I do wrong:
- Not committing fully, fearing injury : when a hand is on movement, from a hold to another, the other hand is all of a sudden holding a big part of my weight and I fear that i could hurt myself.
In top of the of the mental aspect, it really emphasizes a physical lack in finger strength because with such an angle, feet removes not so much weight and every time you remove a hand off the wall, it is really demanding on the other one! I was wondering if it was more of a finger strenth of finger power deficit?
- Core tension : I considered having quite a good core, and can do a plank for a few seconds. but on this wall I feel totally the opposite!!
First, on hard move, I tend to lose the focus on my feet or even lacking of toe strength (quite weird I know!!) whereas on low overhanging terrain, I feel like more "standing" on my feet and focusing on hand movement.
Moreover, there is often a really tricky balance between pushing on your foothold to go for the next hand hold and holding it enough to not cut loose!! (and for some friends it is like no big deal!)
I'm curious to know if any of you had these feelings and issue if you know some way to train it.
Finally despite lot of failing on this wall I would say that I feel like it was exactly what I needed. This extreme angle is perfect for really strong stimulus and can't wait to turn back to the rock after training and encourage strongly others for this kind of training!
I have been quite busy for a while now due to my studies and I have discovered next to the job a creepy bouldering wall around 35-45° degree overhang. For information, i rock climb something around 5.13c/d so when limit bouldering even with this angle, it is not a jug fest (even contains most of the time nasty crimps!).
I learnt to like it a lot and manage to make some friends to come and climb with me. I have been surprised to see that most of my friends are way better than me even if on rock climbing it is most of the time the opposite.
So I try to understand what I do wrong:
- Not committing fully, fearing injury : when a hand is on movement, from a hold to another, the other hand is all of a sudden holding a big part of my weight and I fear that i could hurt myself.
In top of the of the mental aspect, it really emphasizes a physical lack in finger strength because with such an angle, feet removes not so much weight and every time you remove a hand off the wall, it is really demanding on the other one! I was wondering if it was more of a finger strenth of finger power deficit?
- Core tension : I considered having quite a good core, and can do a plank for a few seconds. but on this wall I feel totally the opposite!!
First, on hard move, I tend to lose the focus on my feet or even lacking of toe strength (quite weird I know!!) whereas on low overhanging terrain, I feel like more "standing" on my feet and focusing on hand movement.
Moreover, there is often a really tricky balance between pushing on your foothold to go for the next hand hold and holding it enough to not cut loose!! (and for some friends it is like no big deal!)
I'm curious to know if any of you had these feelings and issue if you know some way to train it.
Finally despite lot of failing on this wall I would say that I feel like it was exactly what I needed. This extreme angle is perfect for really strong stimulus and can't wait to turn back to the rock after training and encourage strongly others for this kind of training!
