Post by pfinn on Jan 30, 2017 12:27:31 GMT -7
(Posted already mp. Probably more productive here.)
....without much climbing.
So I took my first trip to the Red last spring as a last-minute audible. My partner and I made an 11th hour decision to deviate from a Red Rock trip in favor of the Red. As a result, my emphasis on training strength and power was off target. I pretty much got crushed.
I had heard about but was not truly prepared for the sustained nature of the routes. Microscopically, any move on any route I tried felt reasonable, but the totality of these moves left me pretty wrecked. After a decent initial push, I found myself doing a lot of bolt-to-bolt climbing, hopelessly gassed.
Turns out I'm a Front Range climber, which I think means climbing acutely difficult sections between excellent rests.
In a few months (April), I will return to the Red and I'd like to put on a better performance. Problem is, my life demands are such (kids, wife, work) that I really can't climb all that much to prepare - I have approximately 1 hour each day to train. And then I can pull off a half day of climbing, let's say twice a month.
I'm a few weeks into a repeater & max-hang hangboard block (1 of each session per week). Then, I'm climbing at the gym once a week, trying doubles on routes a couple of grades below my onsite limit. The other days I do core/antagonist work, and one block of weighted pull-ups.
I was thinking I'd end the hangboard stuff after 6-8 weeks, replacing it with campus (power) training for 3-4 weeks. All the while maintaining my 1x gym visit doing doubles, and eventually, I hope, triples.
And then from there until the trip, I figured I really put some effort into PE. Linked bouldering circuits, 4x4s, etc. I figured that given my first experience at the Red, I'd expand my attention and effort to this PE training, and hopefully be able to extend the amount of time in which I can climb in the anaerobic/lactic zone.
But I'm unsure that I have diagnosed my shortcomings correctly, or that I have come up with a good plan for the RRG.
Instead of doing doubles in the anaerobic zone (2-3 letter grades below onsight level), should I be on the wall for 30 minutes straight trying to improve my aerobic/anaerobic transition? Or should I be trying to get stronger via hangboard (repeater and max hang), hopefully dragging up my transition point?
Should I forego training power explicitly in favor of PE or more route climbing?
How do people in my situation train for climbing at the RRG?
Help!
....without much climbing.
So I took my first trip to the Red last spring as a last-minute audible. My partner and I made an 11th hour decision to deviate from a Red Rock trip in favor of the Red. As a result, my emphasis on training strength and power was off target. I pretty much got crushed.
I had heard about but was not truly prepared for the sustained nature of the routes. Microscopically, any move on any route I tried felt reasonable, but the totality of these moves left me pretty wrecked. After a decent initial push, I found myself doing a lot of bolt-to-bolt climbing, hopelessly gassed.
Turns out I'm a Front Range climber, which I think means climbing acutely difficult sections between excellent rests.
In a few months (April), I will return to the Red and I'd like to put on a better performance. Problem is, my life demands are such (kids, wife, work) that I really can't climb all that much to prepare - I have approximately 1 hour each day to train. And then I can pull off a half day of climbing, let's say twice a month.
I'm a few weeks into a repeater & max-hang hangboard block (1 of each session per week). Then, I'm climbing at the gym once a week, trying doubles on routes a couple of grades below my onsite limit. The other days I do core/antagonist work, and one block of weighted pull-ups.
I was thinking I'd end the hangboard stuff after 6-8 weeks, replacing it with campus (power) training for 3-4 weeks. All the while maintaining my 1x gym visit doing doubles, and eventually, I hope, triples.
And then from there until the trip, I figured I really put some effort into PE. Linked bouldering circuits, 4x4s, etc. I figured that given my first experience at the Red, I'd expand my attention and effort to this PE training, and hopefully be able to extend the amount of time in which I can climb in the anaerobic/lactic zone.
But I'm unsure that I have diagnosed my shortcomings correctly, or that I have come up with a good plan for the RRG.
Instead of doing doubles in the anaerobic zone (2-3 letter grades below onsight level), should I be on the wall for 30 minutes straight trying to improve my aerobic/anaerobic transition? Or should I be trying to get stronger via hangboard (repeater and max hang), hopefully dragging up my transition point?
Should I forego training power explicitly in favor of PE or more route climbing?
How do people in my situation train for climbing at the RRG?
Help!