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Post by tedwelser on Dec 12, 2016 11:08:20 GMT -7
I like the idea of posting videos to raise conversations about technique and how best to cultivate technical aspects through indoor training. The brief post, and videos linked in them reinforce a major premise in the RCTM of using technical footholds in boulder problems. As mentioned in the post, Blues Clues is a room traverse of the dojo and is defined by a set of 22 blue, tick marked footchips. Climbers can use any handhold they want, except for handlebars and the built in jugs at the edge of the roof sections. This ends up really emphasizing route reading ability, and problem solving; and then once you have your beta, memory. On the other hand, the footholds force creativity in use of one or both feet, body tension, and precision. A simple example of this is the first matching rest, about 1/4 into the traverse involves standing with both feet squeezing a single foot chip shaped like an upside down "V". This rest position reveals technical deficiencies for some of our newer but stronger boulderers, who send V5-V7 indoors but cannot (yet) effectively use this rest. boulderingathenscounty.blogspot.com/2016/12/blues-clues-traverse.html |
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Post by erick on Dec 12, 2016 14:54:26 GMT -7
One of the best "hold" investments I made for the CTC was to a bunch of screw on chips from teknik. I got three of their sets and could not be happier. I have been able to throw lots all over my wall and I still have a bunch left to use as needed. I really feel like it has improved my climbing. Their "no shadow" holds are great, it takes a lot of thought to use them well but if you can set them right they require lots of body tension and precision to use on my 30 degree wall.
Last time I went bouldering outside the foot holds felt bigger than what I normally use which was nice. When I am ARCing and I let myself use a "big" foot I can feel a huge sense of relief and my whole body relaxes, not really what you want on a limit boulder problem. Big foot holds were my biggest frustration with the last gym I was apart of. I could practically climb in flip flops if I wanted to.
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 13, 2016 15:12:27 GMT -7
One of the best "hold" investments I made for the CTC was to a bunch of screw on chips from teknik. I got three of their sets and could not be happier. I have been able to throw lots all over my wall and I still have a bunch left to use as needed. I really feel like it has improved my climbing. Their "no shadow" holds are great, it takes a lot of thought to use them well but if you can set them right they require lots of body tension and precision to use on my 30 degree wall. Last time I went bouldering outside the foot holds felt bigger than what I normally use which was nice. When I am ARCing and I let myself use a "big" foot I can feel a huge sense of relief and my whole body relaxes, not really what you want on a limit boulder problem. Big foot holds were my biggest frustration with the last gym I was apart of. I could practically climb in flip flops if I wanted to. We will check out those teknik footholds for Beta Fish, we are looking get more holds in the next couple months. I suppose one reason small footholds are neglected in big gyms is that they do not set well by color if they are very small-- it is hard to discern the color. |
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Post by octopus on Dec 13, 2016 17:00:47 GMT -7
One of the best "hold" investments I made for the CTC was to a bunch of screw on chips from teknik. I got three of their sets and could not be happier. I have been able to throw lots all over my wall and I still have a bunch left to use as needed. I really feel like it has improved my climbing. Their "no shadow" holds are great, it takes a lot of thought to use them well but if you can set them right they require lots of body tension and precision to use on my 30 degree wall. Last time I went bouldering outside the foot holds felt bigger than what I normally use which was nice. When I am ARCing and I let myself use a "big" foot I can feel a huge sense of relief and my whole body relaxes, not really what you want on a limit boulder problem. Big foot holds were my biggest frustration with the last gym I was apart of. I could practically climb in flip flops if I wanted to. We will check out those teknik footholds for Beta Fish, we are looking get more holds in the next couple months. I suppose one reason small footholds are neglected in big gyms is that they do not set well by color if they are very small-- it is hard to discern the color. I've also witnessed straight laziness from the routesetters from multiple gyms. After they finish screwing the hand holds, they proceed to use the ladder and place their feet on the hand holds to determine the placement for the next set of hand holds. |
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Post by korduroy on Dec 20, 2016 10:50:47 GMT -7
The "No Shadow" feet by Teknik are some of my favorite. A standard in my home gym. We generally use nothing larger than 1/2-inch that protrudes off the wall for feet (unless its the beginners routes). We try to stay representative of the edges and smears needed to climb locally.
The Teknik sneakers are also great! force precise toe work and weight distribution |
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96 
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Post by mclay on Jan 29, 2017 6:48:46 GMT -7
Any recommendations for screw-on footchips to be used in this fashion? The Tekniks look cool, but I'm trying to move away from bolt-on holds.
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 29, 2017 8:17:22 GMT -7
The sandstone chips from Egrips are good screw ons.
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Post by erick on Jan 30, 2017 0:19:05 GMT -7
Any recommendations for screw-on footchips to be used in this fashion? The Tekniks look cool, but I'm trying to move away from bolt-on holds. I have Screw on tiny feet 1 No shadow Screw on hard set 1 I spread them liberaly on my wall and have tons left |
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