Post by willblack on Nov 20, 2016 11:27:49 GMT -7
Six weeks ago I got the gnarliest flapper of my life on the tip of my index finger due to a combination of laziness and power tools while setting lead routes. After some cursing, several bandaids, and copious amounts of tape I was able to (mostly) stop the bleeding and run routes using my back three on my left hand due to my effed up finger. I rested Tuesday, then did my 7th hangboard workout Wednesday (backing off the weight due to my taped/painful finger). That weekend happened to be the only weekend this semester that would allow me to go climb outside, so I went to the Red with my wife. I was still on my back three with my left hand but wanted to try the moves on some routes in preparation for a trip to The Red this December. I got on Jesus Wept the first day and managed to do all the moves without much trouble, but didn't try the route again that day. I climbed some easier stuff on Sunday, then drove back home that night. The next night we set boulders, and I noticed some tweakiness in my left middle finger, probably from all the overcompensation during the past week. I taped my middle finger (proximal phalanx) and decided not to run anything with small holds. Unfortunately, however, I heard a loud pop while pulling on a comfortable full pad edge on a slightly overhung V5, followed by pain, swelling, and a wobbler (not necessarily in that order). I took several weeks off, then did some hangboarding, and am now able to do some careful bouldering and PE training in hopes of salvaging that trip to The Red. The whole thing is unfortunate, but it's at least interesting how that flapper made me vulnerable to getting injured on an extremely comfortable hold, and the fact that taping it didn't seem to do anything to prevent the injury. It also just reinforces the fact that avoiding injury is super important. Prior to the injury, I was feeling really strong and had just made multiple hangboard PR's. If I'm lucky it will probably take me another 14 weeks or so to completely get back to where I was six weeks ago, and I've probably lost two years of progression due to injuries over the course of my climbing career. In the grand scheme of things, this specific injury won't be such a big deal, but I think overall being somewhat timid about finger injuries is a good strategy. Be careful out there, folks.
