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Post by erick on Nov 5, 2016 17:17:14 GMT -7
The wife and I are training for a trip to bishop at Christmas. Right now we are in the middle of our strength phase and next weekend we are making a short trip to Smith. Since starting the rock prodigy system I have never climbed outdoors during a strength phase. We will probably only have two climbing days max and i'm wondering what are the most appropriate types of objects to take on during a strength phase. Should I try and fill out some holes in my route pyramid, consider it outdoor mileage time, start a really hard project I know I can't finish? What's the best way to take advantage of this trip.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 5, 2016 18:34:10 GMT -7
Are you treating your climbing days like training days, or like recovery days? For example, consider the two example schedules:
Example A (training at smith):
Day 1: HB Day 2, 3: Rest Day 4: HB Day 5, 6: Rest Day 7: Climb at Smith (hard) Day 8: Climb at Smith (easy) Day 9, 10: Rest Day 11: HB ...
Example B (Recovery days at Smith): Day 1: HB Day 2, 3: Rest Day 4: HB Day 5: Climb at Smith (easy) Day 8: Climb at Smith (easy) Day 9: Rest Day 10: HB ...
(note, I would not recommend climbing two days in a row, especially not at a cheese-grater like Smith)
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Post by erick on Nov 7, 2016 8:15:45 GMT -7
The schedule is M rest T HB W rest T rest F Smith S Smith ? S Smith ?
I'll probably climb Friday and early morning on Sunday just before heading back home. Would projecting doable routes or 'reach' routes be better for strength training?
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Post by joev9 on Nov 7, 2016 8:26:52 GMT -7
I would climb routes that look fun and just consider this a short break from training. Just pick back up with the next HB session on Wed. after you return...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2016 14:59:09 GMT -7
Doing hard moves, especially fingery hard moves, would be best for training, but I like Joe's idea too.
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