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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 2, 2016 11:33:17 GMT -7
Hey folks,
I have a finger injury that I'm having trouble diagnosing and would love some input. When I was in Wild Iris, I tried Last Man Standing. I was doing an index finger mono and fell, and my finger sorta got stuck in the pocket. I felt some soreness, but afterwards, was totally OK to climb hard. The only types of pressure that were painful involve pressing on the back of the finger, or pulling it to the side (imagine trying to pull the tip of the finger toward the thumb). I took some easy days, but since no climbing movements were bothering me, I kept climbing. Now it's about 2 months later and the finger hasn't really stopped hurting, and it is getting worse (pretty sure trying to fingerlock aggravated it). Now I cannot do a thumb-wrapped crimp without some pain, and more day to day activity has been bothering it. You can see the precise location of the pain in the photo (the two circles). Open hand crimping hasn't been a problem, but I'm planning my next cycle and am getting worried that I won't be able to even do the Forge crimp-with-thumb catch. Anyone have experience with pain in the tip of the finger like this? Attachments:
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 2, 2016 17:27:43 GMT -7
Almost certainly collateral ligament strains. That's a common result when yanking your fingers out of pockets. I usually do it trying to dyno, and jerking my hand up before my fingers are completely out of the pocket. Collateral ligaments are also easily aggravated by finger-locking, which torques the finger joints (collateral ligaments are there to stabilize the joints against twisting).
I think hangboarding is the way to go here. It sounds like you haven't done a proper training cycle in a while, so I would start with that (take 1-2 weeks off first). I wouldn't think crimping on the Forge would be a problem--the thumb should be on the Thumb Support, not on the DIP joint. If you haven't been doing it that way before, you should certainly do it now.
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Post by erick on Nov 3, 2016 11:59:58 GMT -7
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Post by octopus on Nov 3, 2016 18:04:50 GMT -7
The article is about preventing collateral ligament damage, not recovery. Source: I tried it on my strain.
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 9, 2016 14:23:05 GMT -7
Almost certainly collateral ligament strains. That's a common result when yanking your fingers out of pockets. I usually do it trying to dyno, and jerking my hand up before my fingers are completely out of the pocket. Collateral ligaments are also easily aggravated by finger-locking, which torques the finger joints (collateral ligaments are there to stabilize the joints against twisting). I think hangboarding is the way to go here. It sounds like you haven't done a proper training cycle in a while, so I would start with that (take 1-2 weeks off first). I wouldn't think crimping on the Forge would be a problem--the thumb should be on the Thumb Support, not on the DIP joint. If you haven't been doing it that way before, you should certainly do it now. Thanks Mark and Erick, pretty sure that's what it is. Unfortunately, those exercises are for lower segments of the finger but the first part of the article was definitely informative. Mark, I do use the thumb catch. You think it should be OK? I did some bodyweight hangs on a smallish half crimp and it went OK, so I think I should be alright in a couple weeks to bust the forge back out. I am currently doing some intensive endurance and a lot more weight work (deadlifts, standing kettlebell presses, and inverted rows), hoping to build some base strength while I don't have fingers at full capacity, and then plan to transition into dedicated hangboarding and lifting in the next two weeks.
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 9, 2016 14:24:15 GMT -7
Oh and you're right Mark, definitely haven't done any sort of linear cycle since May
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 9, 2016 16:19:53 GMT -7
That sounds like a good plan to me.
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