Outdoor ARC-ing

[mclay]

I was listening to the interview with the Andersons on Training Beta podcast and the common "critique" of RCTM methodology not letting you climb outside enough came up. One of the brothers (sorry, y'all sound a lot alike on the recording, so I'm not sure which one) quickly shot down the idea. But in the response something was said along the lines of "ARC-ing outside is the best way of doing it."

I'm super interested in knowing how to make this work. What sort of route(s) or crags cater to getting constant climbing at a pump-management level that gets the desired result? Who has made this work well and how?

[joev9]

I have made it work on boulders with many holds and problems where you can climb up, down, and back and forth easily and eliminate holds/moves at will. It isn't easy to find the right wall, but if you do, it is gold...

[MarkAnderson]

That was our salesman (Mike) and I'm pretty sure he was talking about Outdoor Mileage, which is described in the book.

[brendann]

Fully doable with the right terrain and a willing belayer.

A couple of good outdoor ARCing spots in the Wasatch:
American Fork Division Wall
Quicklime Girl S 5.11a
Atheist, The S 5.11b
39 S 5.11b
Running Woman

Maple Canyon Minimum Crag

You need pretty featured rock to link multiple pitches with downclimbing 
Outdoor climbing is slow so you don't need as many routes to link

[mclay]

I don't have a good area to get a lot of routes in as some have mentioned. I'm trying to improvise by getting in as much easy volume bouldering as possible. Thankfully there are tons of slabby, granite boulders nearby. It's hard to get anything similar to the sustained pump you get on a traverse wall, but I think my technique is improving just from being out on real rock more often.

[Dylan]

On this subject - sort of... Does anyone here have any experience up and down climbing with a TR solo set up?


I've been looking at the petzl microsender and camp lift, and wondering if it may be possible to slowly climb down using a combination of these devices for security? Or would they simply catch if you tried? I'm unable to find any to check out in person right now...

Thanks

[jonrhoderick]

Dylan,
Have a look at the CAMP Goblin, you can go up and down with it and it seems very reliable as well
Jon